The Power Company Podcast

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Episode 58: Comparing Hangboard Protocols with Steve Maisch

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One of the guests most requested by our listeners, Steve Maisch is a Salt Lake City climber/coach/economics professor who, much like myself, uses himself as a guinea pig to test new approaches to training.  As such, we decided to nerd out on a couple of topics.  For this one, we discuss the different hangboard protocols, when and why to use them, what they can do for you, and where they can go wrong.  I'm sure we forgot a few, which is ok, because we can always record more...

You can find Steve online at http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.  

Episode 57: Flow and Mental Mastery with Hazel Findlay

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I'm not often intimidated by people, but Hazel Findlay's reputation is much larger than her 5'2" frame, so I was a bit anxious about this conversation. Mental training can be a pretty nebulous topic to begin with, so if I was going to be stumbling over my words, it could end up being a rough conversation. Not long after Hazel showed up at my house, it was clear that while she is indeed a force to be reckoned with, there was no reason to fret. As she would say, my worry was all "rubbish".  

Hazel has a really great way of taking these concepts that are sometimes tough to connect with and making them seem simple. She struggles through them just like most of us do, and in turn is able to relate to exactly how we all experience fear, doubt, and any other number of emotions that can be both destructive and extremely valuable. I value this insight as a coach, and I look forward to talking with Hazel more in the future.   

In this episode Hazel mentions The Inner Game of Tennis, a classic book about the mental side of performance.  That led me to wonder what other books that Hazel might recommend, so this month we are giving our patrons Hazel's recommended reading list, as well as a bonus episode with fan favorite Steve Bechtel.

You can find Hazel online at www.hazelfindlayclimbing.com

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.  

Episode 56: Understanding Eating Disorders with Savannah Buik

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If you've been around climbing long enough, you know someone who has or has had an eating disorder. While it's not a secret, it's certainly a topic that is generally shamed and then ignored. As a coach, friend, and partner, I wanted to know more about it, how to recognize it, and what to do when confronted with it. 

Savannah Buik reached out to me a little over a year ago to tell me that she had started a blog, partly inspired by my willingness to call people out, that focused on her own struggles with eating disorders. Since then, she's had more struggles, and in this episode we talk more about those tough times.

Savannah offers us an easy way to understand these disorders, a way to recognize when it's a problem, and a way to think about it while approaching a friend in need.  This is a conversation I'm so glad that I sat down for, no matter how uncomfortable the subject is.

You can find Savannahs blog, Crimpin and Biscuits, at www.savannahbuik.com

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

Our new Applied Body Tension Ebook is out!  Buy it HERE.

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.

Episode 55: Mental Toughness with Emily Tilden

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Here in Lander there is a very strong contingent of powerful women. I'm lucky to have become friends with many of them, and I'm extremely fortunate to be able to count Emily Tilden among those friends.

She is a no bullshit straight shooter, which I value and appreciate, and like many great athletes, she has a mental tenacity that is sometimes difficult to comprehend. I've watched her handily win the pullup comp at the Climbers Festival several times, and I've watched her cruise to an easy win, with a smile on her face, after running 20K at over 9,000 feet.

Emily likes to run long distances. In the mountains. Likes to. What? That just doesn't compute with me. She's a mom that was right back to the gym, with son Wyatt in tow, shortly after giving birth. She also has the often rare ability to vocalize why and how she is able to push through the wall that stops me at about mile #1.

Perhaps even more interesting is that when climbing, she doesn't have the same drive. It occupies a different space for her. Why is that? Why can I go a muerte on a climb, but want to call for a ride home after running a few blocks? What's the difference?

We may actually have a few answers.

Emily is a trainer here in Lander at Elemental Performance and Fitness. She's an NSCA-CPT, and if you're interested in working with her, you can reach her at emily@elementalgym.com 

I promise, she won't bullshit you.

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

Our new Process Journal can be found at http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/process-journal/

Tell your friends.  We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.  

Episode 54: Feminism in Climbing with Shelma Jun

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Shelma Jun is an unapologetic force to be reckoned with, and she's put more thought than most of us into this feminist movement that is rocking the climbing world. To be honest, while I've put a ton of thought into it myself, much of it was in the form of denial. When that began to change, and I opened by eyes a little, I knew I had to have a conversation with Shelma. I'm extremely happy that she was willing to sit down with me and struggle through a tough, but important conversation.  

Some of you will agree. Some of you won't. That's ok. What's important is that we start the conversation, on many levels, and keep it going.  

I've fucked up many times. I'll fuck up more. That's about all that I'm sure of.  

That, and that I'll always make an effort to realize that I don't need to have all the answers.  

You can find Shelma at www.flashfoxy.com and at www.nevernotcollective.com

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

Process Journals are out!  Go get one!  http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/process-journal

Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

Episode 53: Pride or Spray? with Kerry Scott

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In today's episode I sit down with Kerry Scott, an unassuming, but very badass young lady from North Carolina.  Besides coaching a youth team at Triangle Rock Club, Kerry is a crusher.  And she's not ashamed to "spray" a little.  And you all know that I'm definitely not afraid to spray, and I appreciate it when others buck the norm.  

I've spent time in North Carolina, and I know that the south and east in particular can sometimes be a place where you're encouraged not to "spray", and I think that is often unfortunate.  I agree that just puffing up to talk about yourself isn't helpful to anyone, but there is a fine line between spray and pride, and I think that Kerry did a beautiful job navigating that with the ascent of her first 14a, Proper Soul. We talk about why she put it out there, and what that's meant to her.  We also talk about her support system, and how important it is to have that.

Decide for yourself what's appropriate, but don't let others tell you not to be proud of yourself.

And damn it, tell the world about it if that's what you want to do.

To support the podcast, look for us at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast.

You can find us online at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

 

Episode 52: Common Climbing Injuries with Allison Stowers

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In this episode Nate and I sit down with Allison Stowers, a Chattanooga climber and physical therapist. We discuss the climber injuries that Allison most often sees in her clinic... shoulders and hip region injuries.  How to self diagnose, when you should see a doctor,  what to do about it, and most important, how to prevent it.  

You can find Allison at www.chattclimberpt.com or at www.peakfitnessandpt.com 

For the links and videos that we talk about in this episode, visit www.powercompanyclimbing.com 

To support the podcast and become a patron, visit us at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast 

 

 

Episode 51: Finger Health with Dr. Lisa Erickson

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Fingers are pretty important to us.  At some point, all of us will have a tweak, twinge, or injury, and we'll need to know how to deal with that.  In this episode I sit down with Dr. Lisa Erickson, and we dive deep into the methods behind dealing with finger injuries.  We talk taping, acupressure rings, voodoo floss, ultrasound, self diagnosis, and more.  

You can find Lisa's products and her book Climbing Injuries Solved, at www.climbinginjuriessolved.com.

If you would like to see her or reach out to her about an injury you have, go to www.lifesportchiro.com

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

This week the patrons get Lisa's top tips to avoid injury.  Become a patron of the podcast for as little as $1 per month at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast.  

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We don't tweet.  We scream like Eagles.  

 

Episode 50: A Coaching Masterclass with Lantien Chu

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Lantien Chu is a smiling fountain of wisdom.  She's also coach of the Lander Tigers high school swim team, which has won 21 consecutive state titles.  Most important, she's an exceptional human.  

Wait... 21 consecutive state titles?  Yes, and the team does it without ever cutting a swimmer, including some who can't swim when they join the team.  

That seems like a lot of pressure to endure, year after year, particularly if you're a 16 or 17 year old student.  I needed to know how she coached her team, how her team responds, and if any of those lessons could be applicable to climbing.  

Turns out they all are.  They're also applicable to being an exceptional human.  

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can become a patron of the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

Come see us at the Midwest Training for Climbing Conference this August 17-19th in Milwaukee.  More at www.midwesttcc.com  

Share us on your social medias!  

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.  

Episode 49: A Better Strip of Wood with Tension Climbing

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Tension Climbing makes wood climbing holds.  Why wood?  That's exactly what I wanted to know.  I've long known that I'm a fan of climbing on wood, and I have my reasons, but I've never put even remotely close to as much thought into it as the guys at Tension have.  

I sat down with Will Anglin and Ben Spannuth to discuss their products, the reason behind their shapes, what their favorites are, and more.  They just released two new hangboards... The Grindstone and The Grindstone Pro.  If you're in the market, you want one (or both) of these.  Trust me.  We go in depth on these two boards, their brilliant travel/warmup board, The Flash Board, their campus rungs, and even touch on their upcoming Tension Board.  I had to stop Will from saying too much... he's just so excited.  

Tension is giving you guys a discount!  15% off of any regularly priced item in their shop.  Simply use the code powercompany at checkout.   

You can find them at www.tensionclimbing.com.

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast.

Leave us a rating, a review, and spread the word on your social medias!  

We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.