The Power Company Podcast

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Ep. 91: Board Meetings | Do Climbing Gym Grades Matter?

In this episode, in the midst of a gym tour, Nate and I sit down to discuss how we feel about climbing gym grades. Do they matter? Should they be taken seriously? How do they relate to outdoor grades? And possibly most important, what the hell do we do with them?

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Ep. 90: The Coach/Climber Dynamic with Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel

Perhaps the greatest attribute of any successful coach is their ability to effectively communicate with their athlete. Without buy in from the climber, no training plan can be effective. Without communication from the athlete, the right changes can't be made. Success is often directly proportionate to that relationship.

In this episode I talk with a successful coach/climber team: Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel. Taylor has helped coach Bella to big success on the international stage. She's the USA Climbing Youth National Champion in speed climbing, as well as a qualifier for the US Youth Team in all 4 disciplines - Sport, Speed, Bouldering, and the Olympic Combined Format.  

In one of my favorite moments of the episode, Bella talks about the photos her mom takes of her, exhausted at the end of a drill prescribed by Taylor. She happily agreed to share those photos with us, and her reasoning is exactly why I wanted to have this conversation.


Check out Taylor's Beta Angel Project, a site dedicated to making research and data available and accessible to coaches and climbers. If you're a regular listener, you know that I have an aversion to reading research, though I understand that it's a necessary evil. I'm happy to know that there is a place I can go where other climbers have already examined the research and thought through it. I truly believe this will end up being a go-to resource for the community.

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We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 


Ep. 89: Become a Better Climber with Peter Bonamici

Peter Bonamici is a midwest legend. He'll disagree with that, but it's my podcast, so I can make that statement if I want to. Not to mention, it's true.

This entire episode stems from a conversation with Peter in which he told me that he'd just learned to heel hook. After climbing his first V13. What?!

It's pretty simple, really. The reason that Peter, and so many other climbers, are legendary, is because they are good at climbing. Not just strong, but GOOD. They didn't get that way by accident. They got that way through a very intentional practice. One that many of us can learn from.

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