The Power Company Podcast

10 years ago this week - April of 2012 - Rannveig Aamodt made a nearly fatal mistake while cleaning the anchors of a sport route in Turkey. She fell 50 feet to the ground, shattering her back, pelvis, arm, and both ankles. We won’t be going into what caused the accident, but you can read that story, including some heart wrenching excerpts, at her blog about the accident. Instead, this episode is about her recovery. The physical and mental approach she took. The resilience and the will. It’s about how she went from clinging to life, to climbing harder than ever, and what it took to get back on the sharp end, and past the spectre of that moment. This conversation originally aired on February 19, 2016. Find Rannveig online:   Her Site. Instagram. Facebook. Gallery of rehab photos from Nathan Welton   You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We are a proud founding member of Plug Tone Audio.  

Today on the pod I'm reposting Episode 4 of The Average Climber Podcast. If you aren't already subscribed to their show, go do that now!  Learn more about their show at https://www.plugtoneaudio.com/the-average-climber-podcast Find Lauren at https://goodsprayclimbing.com/ Find Caitlin at https://www.caitlinholmes.com/ If you haven't listened to Breaking Beta Season 1, get caught up at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/breakingbeta Learn more about Hip Hop Taught Me Everything at https://www.hiphoptaughtmeeverything.com Find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Check out the new course at the Power Company Climbing Academy - The Shape of Power.  https://powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com/p/the-shape-of-power For only $48 you'll get: Nearly 3 hours of discussion and instructional videos with Nate and Kris. In-depth analysis of 10 bouldering case studies, both indoor and out. 4 Practice Sessions to help you start using these skills in the gym. Downloadable Course Guide Ebook. Self-paced instruction and unlimited access to course materials. You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

This episode is the first 40 minutes of a nearly 2 hour long episode about gamifying climbing, and the pros and cons of individual popular games that many of us play.  To get the final hour of this episode, and at least 2 bonus Board Meetings every month, you can become a patron at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com Join our community forum at https://community.powercompanyclimbing.com/    

In this episode we hear from Emily Holland at Nature Untold, in a re-airing of her episode Eating Disorder Recovery - We Can All Do Better Together.  Featured in this episode are Dr. Jennifer Gaudiani, Jenna Celmer and Caroline Wickes.   Resources for eating disorders: The Gaudiani Clinic Website The Gaudiani Clinic Instagram (has free resources and information) Full Gaudiani Clinic Resources List Catch up with Jenna Celmer: Jenna’s Instagram Catch up with Caroline Wickes: Caroline’s Instagram Article: Weighing In: Does Climbing Need an Eating-Disorder Intervention? Thank you, as always, for listening to this episode. Please follow along on the show’s Instagram, our private Facebook group, or wherever you’d like. We also have a Patreon if you’re interested in supporting everything Nature Untold is cooking up. ______________________________ Check out the spring cleaning sale at www.powercompanyclimbing.com Join the Power Company Climbing Academy email list at https://powercompanyclimbingacademy.teachable.com/sign_up Learn more about Hip Hop Taught Me Everything at https://www.hiphoptaughtmeeverything.com/ We are a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. 

Today I'm bringing you the season finale of my other climbing podcast, all about the science of climbing, Breaking Beta.In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez: Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzalez-Badillo; published in the Journal of Human Kinetics in 2019. They’ll attempt, once more, to determine whether or not scientific evidence exists in favor of a single hangboard protocol being more effective than the rest. Tune in to find out if we have a clear winner in the ring between Max or Intermittent Hangs, or if Paul and Kris are destined to be discussing hangboard studies for many more seasons to come!   *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: From Episode 1: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology, 2012.   Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share!And please, just like in Episode 1, tell all of your ridiculous friends who still claim that they know the best hangboard protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them.   Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website. Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram  Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram  If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub. Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

2 million downloads. Whew. Who knew, 260some episodes ago, that we'd get here? To say thanks for all of the support, I've got 3 bonuses for you.  #1: This episode is a bonus from the We Scream Like Eagles Patron Only Podcast. If you're interested in getting more like this, you can do that at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast #2: We're giving away three free self-guided Proven Plans. To enter to win, all you have to do is sign up for the Plug Tone Audio newsletter. You can do that at the bottom of the page at www.plugtoneaudio.com  We'll be drawing the three winners on Friday, 2/28/22 #3: I'm taking a break. I'll be working on Plug Tone and building new shows for you, and I'll be back with renewed focus, a slightly new format, and an even better version of this show. Thanks. 

Climbing gyms have become big business. Giant gyms are popping up all over the world, with bigger walls, more holds, and massive square footage - but what of the community? Is it being left behind in favor of selling memberships? Not necessarily. Long time climbers Josh Muller and Regan Kennedy own Bolder Climbing Community in Calgary, and through their branding and community focused efforts, they’ve built a thriving business that withstood the pandemic and still keeps them excited to climb. In this episode I sit down with Josh, gym manager Jordan Jasper, and photographer/videographer Nic Nolet to discuss the idea of community and what it means to each of them. In this episode we discuss: Why having “community” in the name is important. How a welcoming community draws people in. The role of mentors. Should gym mentorship extend to the outdoors? How gym layout and merch can help build community. How building community translates to good business. Find Bolder Climbing Community online. Bolder on Instagram. Josh on Instagram. Jordan on Instagram. Nic on Instagram. Work with Nic on your photo and video projects. _____________________________________________________ Check out our Proven Plans and be ready for the spring season! Power Company Climbing online. Power Company on Instagram. Check out our new Knowledge + Community Hub! Support the podcast on Patreon. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The best coaches understand more than just what muscle is the prime mover in a specific lift. They understand sports science, behavior, habits, motivation, and maybe most important - struggle. Aman Anderson understands all of these things and more. And he thinks big. As if being a small business and gym owner isn’t enough, Aman also dedicates his time to coaching the next generation of climbers and building one of the most exciting competitions to hit climbing in many years - The Beast Fingers Loud Climbing Combine. The BFL Combine is a blend of sports science, climbing culture, and urban culture. Loud music, deep bass, strong climbers and feats of strength. The next combine will happen on April 9, 2022 in Denver, CO. Get Registered! Beast Fingers Climbing Beast Fingers on Instagram BFL Combine on Instagram Watch the video about Aman. If you want to get involved, email Aman at beastfingerstraining@gmail.com ________________________________ You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We are proud founding members of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Get signed up for Red River Pump Prep with Dru Mack!   

Climbing is complicated. It’s physical, emotional, psychological, and depending on the person, tends to either quiet or amplify the things you have going on outside of climbing. Not to mention, the climbing community can come with it’s own bad habits that might feed your demons. Emily Holland is a podcast coach and host of the incredible podcast Nature Untold. She tells stories of addiction and recovery in the outdoor community. Today we tell her story. A story of how sobriety helped her find her way back to climbing, and how a supportive community has made all the difference. In this episode we discuss: Why climbing was a toxic place for her. What changed her mindset. How’s she’s leaning in a little at a time. The role that sobriety - and Nature Untold - played. How a caring community can make the difference. You can find Emily at https://emilyholland.co/ You can listen to Nature Untold at https://www.natureuntoldcollective.com/ Find Emily on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/e_hollz/ --- You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We are a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.  We don't tweet. We scream like Eagles.