Fame and authenticity don’t always go hand in hand. We’d love to believe that in climbing they always do, but that just isn’t the case. As someone who makes their living in a very public way within the climbing industry, I’m hyper aware of my own authenticity, and I watch other public figures in our tiny sphere to see how they navigate. Because Sasha is at the top, I watch her closely.
In this episode Sasha and I sit down in her house in Boulder, CO to discuss her recent trip to Alberta, Canada. She drove north alone, after a break up and social media firestorm, to climb the Rockies Trilogy first established by Sonnie Trotter. Three 5.14 Big Walls. No small undertaking. She struggled, doubted, pulled it back together and sent, and she found out in a big way how to be a climber again.
You can find Sasha at www.sasha-digiulian.com
You can check out our new Circuit Tape at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/circuit-tape
Get the Core Strength for Climbers ebook at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/ebook
Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
My good friend and Episode 16 guest Dru Mack stopped by during the International Climbers Festival in Lander to chat, and of course the conversation turned to climbing. He told me about a list that Jonathan Siegrist had created for him - a list that is a surefire way to make sure that Dru's development as a climber isn't lacking.
I needed to know more, so I sat down with Dru, Nate, and our friend John Wesely to discuss the list, and the potential growth (and pitfalls) that might be involved in the attempts at completing the list. There's also some very important commentary from a special guest.
We always have a lot of fun in this podcast, but this episode was particularly fun to record and put together. I've known Dru since his first 5.12's, so it's fun to see him progressing both in climbing and in life. Dru has become a Red River superstar, and well on his way to taking that to a larger platform. Since JStar so graciously offered his help, we thought it would be great if Dru came up with similar lists for the up and coming Red River Climbers.
Dru drafted his lists, Nate and I critiqued, and eventually the lists were finalized. We wanted to follow the format JStar had put forth - some of the routes are going to feel hard for the grade. Some of them are going to teach you new skills. You'll learn from every one of them.
So download them to your phone, print them out, stash them in your guidebook. Have Dru sign your copy when you see him.
DOWNLOAD THE LISTS HERE
FOLLOW DRU ON INSTAGRAM
Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
Don't get us wrong... we LOVE gyms. And if your only goal is to be as good as you can in your gym, then you can skip this episode. However, if you want to be prepared for the outdoors, then this episode will be important for you.
Gyms are businesses and have to operate as such. They make prudent decisions that are beneficial for them as businesses, but aren't necesarily good for you as a rock climber.
In this episode Nate and I discuss the Top 5 decisions that gyms make (often from necessity) that are holding you back from your outdoor goals.
You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com
You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
We're flipping the script for our 100th (!!!) episode. Nate takes over the host mic, and I do my best to let him lead the conversation. After being at the helm so many conversations, it's hard for me to relinquish that role.
In this episode we talk about my years of Weekend Warrioring, and how to climb hard while also being dedicated to a career and family. We dig into how many hours of training it takes and how to make that happen. We also get into how the recent changes in my life and situation have changed how I have to look at my climbing.
Use the code in the episode for 20% off at www.powercompanyclimbing.com
Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
I've heard Tonde Katiyo described as a ninja, a samurai, Buddha and Yoda, among other ethereal, higher level beings. Though Tonde is definitely a human, those descriptions aren't necessarily wrong.
In conversation it's quickly evident that Tonde has put quite a bit of thought and care into his craft. He approaches it with both a pragmatism and creativity that often don't exist together. Partly because of this juxtaposition, many in the routesetting industry seem to look to Tonde for their cues, and he doesn't give answers lightly.
Instead, he asks questions.
Tonde and I sat down at the Climbing Wall Association Summit to discuss his vision for setting... both present and future. We dig into his ideas concerning circuits, the RIC (risk, intensity, complexity) Scale, the silent partnership between climber and setter, and art versus design.
If you came here looking for answers, you may not find them. What you will likely find are more questions. According to Tonde Katiyo, those may be the best answers of all.
For the photo of Tonde with Yoda ears and holding planets in his hands, as well as links to his instagram and videos, visit us at The Episode Page
You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
These are three of the most dynamic women I've ever had the pleasure of having a conversation with. They've put their souls into their work. I went in prepared (and nervous) for a very serious discussion, but they so easily toggled between joking and focused that I was put completely at ease.
Brown Girls Climb aims to promote and increase visibility of diversity in climbing by establishing a community of climbers of color, encouraging leadership opportunities for identified women climbers of color, and by creating inclusive opportunities to climb and explore for under represented communities.
We sat down to discuss diversity in climbing. It's a complex topic, and while you won't find answers here, per se, thoughts may be sparked that lead you toward your own answers.
For Links to Resources, Videos, and More, visit the show notes page HERE.
If you aren't aware of Jorg Verhoeven, it's likely that you don't pay all that much attention to climbing. Jorg is one of the most accomplished all around climbers on the planet, having climbed 14d, V15, and freed the Nose and Dihedral Wall on ElCap. He's also an accomplished comp climber, having been on more than 25 World Cup podiums for bouldering and lead, and having won both the Combined World Cup Championship and the Overal Lead World Cup Championship.
He climbs hard. He climbs well. On all terrain, in all the places.
In this episode I sit down with Jorg in Vail to discuss his big goal of climbing 15b, and the website he's started to let us all follow along, www.project-9b.com. Project 9b is a rare glimpse into not only the training of a pro climber, but the thought process behind it, the tactics employed, and the emotions of success and failure.
You can find videos of Jorg from LT11 HERE.
You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com
You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
