The Power Company Podcast

Dear Alex, Congrats on 100 V10's!    You can find Alex on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/alexjohnson89 You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Andy Leung is the headsetter of Climb Time Cincinnati - a community that is near and dear to my heart. In this episode we discuss not only the career of routesetting, but also what it means to both the setter and the community, how it can help us all grow, and what to keep in mind in order to keep moving forward.  You can find Andy on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/andy.routesetter You can find Climb Time at http://www.ctoba.com/ You can find the Breaking Beta Podcast on Spotify at https://open.spotify.com/show/0aYRN7NBOlfTs3rGhSFiVI and on Apple Podcasts at https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/breaking-beta-the-science-of-climbing/id1593108706 You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast and get extra Board Meetings at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We are a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Learn more at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/plugtone We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

In this Board Meeting, rather than make a list, Nate and I discuss our individual top picks for the most common, most egregious, absolute worst tactic we see sport climbers using. If you're making this mistake, consider actively exploring something different in your next session. You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We are a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

In this Board Meeting, rather than make a list, Nate and I discuss our individual top picks for the most common, most egregious, absolute worst tactic we see boulderers using. If you're making this mistake, consider actively exploring something different in your next session. The Worst Punt of all Time Video You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We are a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

How do we get better at climbing? That's a question we ask, and are asked, ALL THE TIME. One of the best answers is certainly something along the lines of "Be very intentional about challenging yourself while climbing as many things as you can." A bit simplistic, but it works.  Kerry Scott embodies this. From her goal to climb 100 new boulders in a year from V3 to V11, to doing her hardest boulders, to her recent send of Mango Tango (14a) in the New River Gorge on a week long trip, Kerry gets after it. Consistently.  See the 100 Boulders diamond at https://powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/kerry-scott You can find Kerry on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/kerryscott123 You can find our new community forum at https://community.powercompanyclimbing.com You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.     

Juliet Hammer is a straight up crusher, with over 30 double digit boulders under her belt. Still, she isn't immune to the dark side of the internet. The side which so regularly has to push their "expertise" on grades and climbing. Many of these people are too incompetent to understand how incompetent they are - the Dunning-Kruger Effect. And their comments can be harmful to not only the original poster, but anyone who reads them. In this episode, Juliet and I unpack a recent reel she posted to Instagram, of a V10 gym boulder, that brought the trolls out.  You can find the reel we discuss at https://www.instagram.com/reel/CVA2dk_MnW3 You can find Juliet on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/juliet_amanda You can find her online at https://www.julietamanda.com/ Check out my conversation with Caroline Wickes, which we mention, at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2021/4/15/ep-201-caroline-wickes-eating-disorders-in-climbing And my conversation about spray with Kerry Scott at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2017/7/27/episode-53-pride-or-spray-with-kerry-scott Join our community forum at https://community.powercompanyclimbing.com/ Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Doing the work in a social media world can take it's toll. Today I sit down with my good friends Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard and Devin Dabney to discuss the hammers they wield, the way they interact with the work they do in public, and what that might mean for their well being.  You can learn more about Climb L8 and reach out to Briana at https://rrgcc.org/climb-l8/ You can find her on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/dirtbagmomma You can learn more about The American Climbing Project at https://www.americanclimbingproject.com/ You can reach Devin on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop/ You can join our Community Forum at https://community.powercompanyclimbing.com/ You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Hueco Tanks, just outside of El Paso, Texas,  is one of the world’s premier bouldering destinations, and for good reason. An oasis (literally) in the middle of the desert, Hueco houses every type of boulder you can imagine. You’ll find classic boulders of every style, from techy slab to featured roof, and enough “party trick” boulders to keep you busy for damned near ever.  Learn more at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/wwhtt-hueco-tanks Find Applied Body Tension at https://gum.co/TLcKv Find Fingers+ and all of our bouldering training plans at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   

In July of 2020 I released an episode with Devin Dabney in which we discussed a podcast idea he’d been mulling over for quite some time. A podcast that would look at social issues within the climbing community from a variety of perspectives. Much of the feedback around that episode was that people wanted to hear more from Devin. He needed to do that podcast. Fast forward a little over a year, and The American Climbing Project has just dropped Episode 3, Now That’s What I Call Racism. Devin is one of the most thoughtful humans I know. Not to mention WILDLY creative. It’s been my absolute pleasure to give advice where needed and get a front row seat to watch him grow. Plus, I get to collaborate with him regularly, which pretty much means I’m winning. If you haven’t listed to The American Climbing Project, go do it. If you haven’t read their blog, then DEFINITELY go do that. It’s an educational treasure trove. Devin and Rob do a spectacular job of teaming up to make something really special. Something this community needs. You can find Devin and The American Climbing Project at https://www.americanclimbingproject.com/ You can find them on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/americanclimbingproject You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We are a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective along with The American Climbing Project and Sends and Suffers.  We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

This summer I had a dinner at my house with a group of folks who I have immense respect for. Like minded climbers who are interested in both exploring their own personal limits and pushing the community to be better. After the dinner, I heard the same feedback from nearly every person - that conversations with Lor were the highlight of the night.Lor is a climber who leans into every style in a really intentional effort to improve. They are a Warriors Way coach who has the incredible ability to listen, empathize, and ask you very kind questions that introduce you to the precise first step you need to take. That might be an actionable first step, or it might be a thought or emotion you’ll have to grapple with, but it will lead you in the right direction. Because of this, I decided to (very selfishly) turn this episode into, essentially, a private coaching session.  I’ve recently been leaning into my fears of tall boulders and trying to document my process. I asked Lor to watch a video I had made about a recent scary project, a V10 called Flight of the Antelope, and give me feedback on my process. They delivered with an absolute gift of a conversation.  Climbing better isn’t about just getting physically stronger. It’s about confronting whatever obstacles you find in front of you. Dancing with them instead of fighting. Better understanding your own motivations, and not taking the easier path just because it’s easier. Lor has written for us before about Finding Joy in Improbable Goals - an article that inspired me to lean harder into the things that scare me. They are the subject of a brilliant documentary film from Patagonia called They/Them that will be released on October 6th. 30 seconds into watching the film I said, out loud, “Fuck, I know exactly how that feels.” Lor has dealt with all of the same fear that you have. They have leaned into it, and emerged a better teacher for it. This film does a fantastic job of highlighting this incredible human.Work with Lor at https://warriorsway.com/find-training-coaching/ Watch the video we discuss at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYUSkkYr0o8 Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.