The Power Company Climbing Podcast

TAPED TIPS | The Technique Error Holding Sport Climbers Back: Embracing Instability

After working with thousands of sport climbers, I’ve noticed a pattern of climbers getting stuck at around 11c, then 12b, and again at 13a. One of the hallmarks of routes at these grade bottlenecks is that it gets harder to find stable positions. The climber who hopes to move further will need to be comfortable in that instability.
And while it's tempting to think that getting stronger is always the answer, in reality it’s only part of the equation...
 
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s
Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution
Lee Cujes | Is It Really A Plateau?
The Most Important Skill for Climbing 5.13
REMIX: FAILURE
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🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

TAPED TIPS | The Two Biggest Barriers to Sending Hard Climbs

Have you ever tried a hard climb or a hard move and immediately said, “I just need to get stronger,” but then a few attempts later you just do the thing?
Did you somehow magically get stronger in those few attempts?
No, of course not. A lot of things could have happened in those few attempts, but what didn’t happen is you gaining strength. 
We should know better than to use, “I just need to get stronger,” as an excuse to quit, but it keeps happening...
 
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s
Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution
The Most Important Skill for Climbing 5.13
REMIX: FAILURE
REMIX: EFFORT
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

TAPED TIPS | There Are 3 Types of Climber. This One Is ALWAYS Better.

When it comes to putting effort into climbing, there are 3 types of climber. All can be effective, but one type is ALWAYS better.
Which are you?
 
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Try Harder Toolkit
Metrics for Climbers | Strength and Endurance Standards
How to Climb Harder: What Data From Over 600 Climbers Tells Us
The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement
Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution
Taped Tips | The Most Underrated Climbing Movement Skill
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | How To Use Outdoor Sport Climbing As Training

Not all training needs to be indoors. If you're lucky enough to be able to spend a large amount of your time outside, it might make sense to use some of that time for training rather than performance.
In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss examples of how we can do this without sacrificing our performance time.
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution
Patron Question: Climbing Improvement and Training vs. Performance in the Same Environment
Board Meetings | Outdoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Indoors
Board Meetings | Indoor Climbing Lessons That You Should Take Outdoors
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

TAPED TIPS | How To Toe Hook: The Most Misunderstood Climbing Technique

Toe-hooking is a technique that is very often misunderstood in two principal ways. This confusion leads to toe hooks seeming harder and more like sorcery than other techniques.
But you’re probably just going about it the wrong way. Most people don’t need to get stronger. They need to get better.
They need a better understanding of the move itself...
 
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement
FOCUS | Q & A Part 2: Movement Solutions, Finding Better Beta, and Toe Hooks vs. Heel Hooks
CONFLICTED | Kneebarring on Boulders
Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution
Taped Tips | The Most Underrated Climbing Movement Skill
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

TAPED TIPS | The Most Important Skill for Climbing 5.13

When I finished my 100th 5.13 sport climb and was writing a book about the lessons I learned along the way, something became clear to me.
There is one single skill that trumps all others when it comes to being able to climb 5.13.
It’s not better footwork, it’s not a stronger pull-up, and it’s not more finger strength. Those things can – and often do – play a big part.
But if you don’t have this one skill dialed in, those things may be rendered nearly useless...
 
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s
Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution
Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing
REMIX: EFFORT
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Better Working Goes: How To Send Faster

The length of time we spend working a project often depends on the strength of our projecting game – particularly what we do on those important working attempts. Many of us either keep working things when we should have sent weeks ago, or we cut off the working goes and start redpoint attempts way too early.
The best climbers put themselves into send position with fewer working attempts, and know when they are ready to get it done. 
So the question is:
How can we make better use of our working goes and send hard things faster?
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution
The Projecting Strategy Most Climbers Never Learn
Board Meetings | Top 3 Redpoint Tactics
REMIX | PROCESS
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
_________________________
📚 CHAPTERS
(00:00) Intro
(01:47) What is a Working Go?
(09:24) First Steps for a Good Working Go
(13:18) Notes, Tips, and Tricks for Easier Clips
(20:45) Intention, Nuance, and Attention to Detail
(29:22) Hoping To Get Lucky
(32:30) Not Enough Attempts
(34:18) Avoiding the Questions
(36:10) Trying To Do Too Many Things
(39:46) Cues and Intuition
(43:23) Never Improving the Process
(53:07) Punt Prevention

TAPED TIPS | Triple Your Sends Using If-Then Intentions

There's one simple thing that can result in the biggest performance gains in your climbing, no matter what level you’re at. And you can implement it right now.
I’m going to tell you not only what this simple superpower is, but also what the sports research says about how you can give it an even greater boost...
 
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement
The Projecting Strategy Most Climbers Never Learn
Climb Your Project Sooner | The Art of Execution
REMIX | EFFORT
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Principle vs. Prescription in Climbing Training

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the final of those five aspects: principle vs. prescription in climbing training.
 
This episode originally aired on March 23, 2018.
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now!
Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics
Board Meetings | Should Climbers Train Where They Are or Where They Want To Be?
Board Meetings | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize?
Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers
Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing
Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset
Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Should Climbers Train Where They Are or Where They Want To Be?

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the fourth of those five aspects: Training where you are currently instead of where you want to be.
Starting where you are is an important first step that is often missed. 
This episode originally aired on March 22, 2018.
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now!
Board Meetings | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize?
Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers
Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing
Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset
Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.