Episodes

Monday Dec 27, 2021
Monday Dec 27, 2021
Climbing is complicated. It’s physical, emotional, psychological, and depending on the person, tends to either quiet or amplify the things you have going on outside of climbing. Not to mention, the climbing community can come with it’s own bad habits that might feed your demons. Emily Holland is a podcast coach and host of the incredible podcast Nature Untold. She tells stories of addiction and recovery in the outdoor community. Today we tell her story. A story of how sobriety helped her find her way back to climbing, and how a supportive community has made all the difference. In this episode we discuss: Why climbing was a toxic place for her. What changed her mindset. How’s she’s leaning in a little at a time. The role that sobriety - and Nature Untold - played. How a caring community can make the difference. You can find Emily at https://emilyholland.co/ You can listen to Nature Untold at https://www.natureuntoldcollective.com/ Find Emily on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/e_hollz/ --- You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We are a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. We don't tweet. We scream like Eagles.

Monday Dec 20, 2021
Monday Dec 20, 2021
Whether a Moon Board, Tension Board, Grasshopper, Kilter or any of the other number of boards making their way into climbing gyms or homes worldwide, there are certainly ways to get more out of them. Assuming you have other options for training and climbing, there are also many things the boards don't do so well. In this episode, Nate and I discuss the ups and downs of board climbing, including a collection of drills we've made specifically for the boards. You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast and get 2 extra Board Meetings each month at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast Check out our Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans We are a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Learn more about us and our other shows at www.plugtoneaudio.com We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

Tuesday Dec 14, 2021
Tuesday Dec 14, 2021
The Climbing Initiative is a nonprofit supporting the sustainable and equitable growth of climbing worldwide. It began in 2019 as a research project at Yale University documenting the international expansion of climbing and its economic, social, and environmental effects. Now the group advises climbing organizations, spreads best practices, and works directly with climbing communities around the world to help them flourish. Today I sit down with Executive Director Veronica Baker to discuss the mission of The Climbing Initiative (TCI) and the challenges they - and we as the global climbing community - face. We also discuss their Best Practices project - a collection of living documents that is gathering the voices of climbing leaders around the world to shape the future development of our sport. As climbing grows, it is having incredible economic, social, and environmental impacts. Climbers are creating new hotspots for ecotourism, building tight-knit communities, advocating for the conservation of natural areas, and using climbing to uplift and inspire. In their work partnering with local climbing communities, they’ve connected with many climbing leaders paving the way with innovative approaches. As a result, the Best Practices are focused on six main areas: crag development & maintenance environmental conservation equity & inclusivity community engagement economic impact building climbing organizations You can support TCI at https://climbinginitiative.org/support You can find the Best Practices at https://climbinginitiative.org/best-practices Watch the Access Fund videos we mention at https://vimeo.com/channels/1740097 Find TCI on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/theclimbinginitiative/ ____________________________ You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We are proud members of the Plug Tone Audio Collective We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

Tuesday Dec 07, 2021
Tuesday Dec 07, 2021
In this episode I sit down with my friend Lauren Abernathy, who you might recognize as Good Spray Coaching. We first discuss the change from being a weekend warrior to being in the midst of her first trip specifically for a big, ambitious project as a full time coach who can climb when she wants to. We also get into the challenges of being a female coach - having your expertise questioned and dealing with the abundance of mostly male internet idiots. You can find Lauren online at Good Spray Climbing Follow her on Instagram From now until the end of December, use the code GOODSPRAY to get 20% off of any of her self-guided programs you'll find HERE. NEW PLUGTONE PODCAST ALERT! Breaking Beta drops on Wednesday Dec. 8th! We are happy to welcome Switchback: An Outdoor Community Podcast hosted by Kelsee Keitel, a licensed educator and outdoor based mental health counselor. You can listen to a short episode that I really enjoyed, Curiosity Killed the Criticism, on Spotify HERE or on Apple Podcasts HERE. And in this very episode we announce a brand new podcast we have in development! Go listen! You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

Wednesday Dec 01, 2021
Wednesday Dec 01, 2021
Introducing the trailer for a new podcast brought to you by Power Company Climbing, Crux Conditioning, and Plug Tone Audio! Is it possible to make research and science both more fun - and frankly - more useful for coaches and climbers? That’s what we needed to answer. Now that we’re a few episodes into recording this podcast, I can honestly answer YES. It takes a lot of work, but yes. Our goal is to do that work for you. In this podcast, coaches Paul Corsaro and Kris Hampton are getting together in the lab weekly to look at the body of research - both climbing specific and more general sports science - that is often cited by climbers on their quest to improve. We’ll take each study, break it into it’s components, explain it in a way that doesn’t make your eyes glaze over, and then discuss what we find useful and as well as the ways in which these studies are so wildly misinterpreted by damn near every one of us. Season 1 of Breaking Beta drops on Wednesday, December 8th. Every week for 10 weeks we’ll be getting deep into finger strength, tendon health, creatine, flexibility, climbing specific injury, and more. What the research says, what it doesn’t, and how you’ve been getting it all wrong. Make sure you’re subscribed, hit the follow button on Spotify, and tell your friends to tell a friend. Particularly that one friend who is always citing his wild misinterpretation of the research. Tell him you’ve got the perfect podcast for him. Brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning. Find Kris and our main Breaking Beta content on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/powercompanyclimbing/ Find Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/cruxconditioning/ Get transcripts, citations, and more at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/breakingbeta If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at https://community.powercompanyclimbing.com Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord. Breaking Beta is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

Monday Nov 29, 2021
Monday Nov 29, 2021
Dear Alex, Congrats on 100 V10's! You can find Alex on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/alexjohnson89 You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

Thursday Nov 18, 2021
Thursday Nov 18, 2021
Andy Leung is the headsetter of Climb Time Cincinnati - a community that is near and dear to my heart. In this episode we discuss not only the career of routesetting, but also what it means to both the setter and the community, how it can help us all grow, and what to keep in mind in order to keep moving forward. You can find Andy on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/andy.routesetter You can find Climb Time at http://www.ctoba.com/ You can find the Breaking Beta Podcast on Spotify at https://open.spotify.com/show/0aYRN7NBOlfTs3rGhSFiVI and on Apple Podcasts at https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/breaking-beta-the-science-of-climbing/id1593108706 You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast and get extra Board Meetings at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We are a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Learn more at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/plugtone We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

Wednesday Nov 10, 2021
Wednesday Nov 10, 2021
In this Board Meeting, rather than make a list, Nate and I discuss our individual top picks for the most common, most egregious, absolute worst tactic we see sport climbers using. If you're making this mistake, consider actively exploring something different in your next session. You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We are a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

Monday Nov 08, 2021
Monday Nov 08, 2021
In this Board Meeting, rather than make a list, Nate and I discuss our individual top picks for the most common, most egregious, absolute worst tactic we see boulderers using. If you're making this mistake, consider actively exploring something different in your next session. The Worst Punt of all Time Video You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We are a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

Monday Nov 01, 2021
Monday Nov 01, 2021
How do we get better at climbing? That's a question we ask, and are asked, ALL THE TIME. One of the best answers is certainly something along the lines of "Be very intentional about challenging yourself while climbing as many things as you can." A bit simplistic, but it works. Kerry Scott embodies this. From her goal to climb 100 new boulders in a year from V3 to V11, to doing her hardest boulders, to her recent send of Mango Tango (14a) in the New River Gorge on a week long trip, Kerry gets after it. Consistently. See the 100 Boulders diamond at https://powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/kerry-scott You can find Kerry on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/kerryscott123 You can find our new community forum at https://community.powercompanyclimbing.com You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.