The Power Company Podcast

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Lor Sabourin | Dealing With Fear

This summer I had a dinner at my house with a group of folks who I have immense respect for. Like minded climbers who are interested in both exploring their own personal limits and pushing the community to be better. After the dinner, I heard the same feedback from nearly every person - that conversations with Lor were the highlight of the night.
Lor is a climber who leans into every style in a really intentional effort to improve. They are a Warriors Way coach who has the incredible ability to listen, empathize, and ask you very kind questions that introduce you to the precise first step you need to take. That might be an actionable first step, or it might be a thought or emotion you’ll have to grapple with, but it will lead you in the right direction.

Because of this, I decided to (very selfishly) turn this episode into, essentially, a private coaching session. 

I’ve recently been leaning into my fears of tall boulders and trying to document my process. I asked Lor to watch a video I had made about a recent scary project, a V10 called Flight of the Antelope, and give me feedback on my process. They delivered with an absolute gift of a conversation.  

Climbing better isn’t about just getting physically stronger. It’s about confronting whatever obstacles you find in front of you. Dancing with them instead of fighting. Better understanding your own motivations, and not taking the easier path just because it’s easier. Lor has written for us before about Finding Joy in Improbable Goals - an article that inspired me to lean harder into the things that scare me. They are the subject of a brilliant documentary film from Patagonia called They/Them that will be released on October 6th. 30 seconds into watching the film I said, out loud, “Fuck, I know exactly how that feels.” Lor has dealt with all of the same fear that you have. They have leaned into it, and emerged a better teacher for it. This film does a fantastic job of highlighting this incredible human.

Work with Lor at https://warriorsway.com/find-training-coaching/

Watch the video we discuss at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYUSkkYr0o8

Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Kris Interviewed by Luke Mehall for Dirtbag State of Mind

In this episode Kris is in the hot seat, and Luke Mehall takes over the interview duties. They discuss entrepreneurship, hiphop, climbing, and how creativity filters down through all of it. 

This episode aired previously on the Dirtbag State of Mind Podcast, found wherever you consume pods. 

You can find Luke, The Climbing Zine, and the podcast at https://climbingzine.com/

You can find them on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/theclimbingzine

You can sign up for the Better Boulder Tactics clinic at https://www.joesvalleyfest.com/clinics.html

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Kyle O‘Meara | Intentional Mentorship

In an Instagram post announcing that he had accepted the head coach position at The Climbing Academy, Kyle O’Meara wrote “I love the way we each find our own path in this sport. Some of us crave higher performance and chase the next level forever. Others seek an adventure where discovery and creativity are the primary focus. Most fall somewhere in the middle. We can ALL go further and bigger no matter what end goal inspires our personal pursuit, and if we’re enjoying the process, appreciating the journey, and smiling lots along the way, then that probably counts as ‘winning’.”

Climbing is an individual thing. What drives me may not be the same thing that drives you, and that’s ok.

While mentorship is, on it’s surface, a noble pursuit - it can often go wrong. Mentors are human and are just as prone as the rest of us to overvalue their own selfish ideas - and then pass them on to the next generation without much thought toward necessary change or evolution of those ideas.

Personally, I admire most the mentors and thinkers who work hard to directly engage with this unavoidable evolution. The ones who simultaneously continue their own growth. That interaction, even more than advancing the grades we climb, is what allows progress to happen and continue.

Mentorship isn’t dead. We just need more mentors like Kyle.

Find Kyle on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/kyle_omeara

Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

Get tickets for the Joe's Valley Fest at www.joesvalleyfest.com

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

What When How to Train | Smith Rock | Featuring Justin Brown

Smith Rock, about 30 minutes outside of Bend, Oregon is a destination that should be on every sport climbers list of places to visit. It’s the birthplace of American sport climbing and home of the first 5.14 in the country, To Bolt or Not To Be. Beside that, our guest on this episode of the What When How to Train podcast series, local Justin Brown, claims that it’s the best example of this technical, old school style in THE WORLD.
That’s a big claim, but Justin, owner of Rhino Skin Solutions, stands by it. Littered with small edges, pockets, and horrible feet, most routes at Smith provide options for all sizes of climber to find their way through the devious technical sequences.

You can find Justin online at www.rhinoskinsolutions.com

You can find and train with us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

Support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

 

The Downgrading of Bibliographie from 15d to 15c

Stefano Ghisolfi recently made the 2nd ascent of Bibliographie, a proposed 15d (9c) first done by Alex Megos in Ceuse, France. This would have made Stefano only the 3rd person to climb the grade - behind the two climbers widely considered as the best in the world. But Stefano chose to say that the route isn’t 15d after all, but 15c (9b+). Why?

In this episode, Nate and I discuss grades, downgrading, egos, pressure, and how these two climbers handled the situation in an incredibly mature, progressive way. But is it the best way? Does it matter?

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

These are exactly the kinds of conversations our Patrons get more of. 2 extra episodes every month. You can become a Patron at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don’t tweet. We scream like eagles.

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