BOARD MEETINGS | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience?

A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck at mid 5.10. And they have all of the excuses as to why. But they’re wrong.

In this episode, Kris and Nate explore why we believe we’ll just get better if we keep at it, as well as offer strategies to continue improving no matter how long (or short) you’ve been at it.

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing

Board Meetings | Quality vs. Quantity

Board Meetings | Worst Advice We Got As Beginners

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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

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📚 CHAPTERS

(0:00) Theme

(0:37) Intro and Topic Description

(3:13) Examples of Experience that Doesn’t Guarantee Skill

(6:53) Why Most of Us Believe Experience Equals Skill

(10:55) What are the Pros Doing?

(16:20) It Isn’t All About Grades

(18:20) Undervaluing Other Styles and Angles

(19:43) We Don’t Want to Spend the Time

(21:20) We Go Into Autopilot

(23:23) How Can We Keep Improving Skills?

(24:17) Search for Novelty or Change Environments

(28:30) Approach Improvement from All Angles

(31:06) Recognize Discomfort and Lean In, Even Off the Wall

(35:08) The Zone (Not Grades) Where We Develop Skills

(37:16) Why We Suggest Drills

(38:15) Autopilot Mistakes

(42:40) How New Skills Open Opportunities on Hard Projects

(44:10) Examples of Pros Spending Time Below Their Limits

(49:20) Why Consistency Is NOT King

(53:28) Bringing Intention to Skill Drills

(55:47) Tried and True or Just Tradition?

(01:01:01) So Is Skill Guaranteed With Experience?

(01:03:45) How to Go Deeper Into Movement