EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)

Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.

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EXPLORE FURTHER

Our entire movement skills resource library

Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode

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Check out The Perception & Action Podcast

Check out Rob's books:

How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills

Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship

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Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

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CHAPTERS

(0:00) Intro

(2:00) Guest Introduction

(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories

(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides

(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods

(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing

(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards

(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach

(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching

(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example

(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing

(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling

(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders

(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?

(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill

(40:45) Wrap Up