REWIND | Can We Accurately Measure the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?

Today we rewind to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing:

Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance
Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. Chidley, and Nick Draper; published in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance in January, 2020.

They’ll attempt to determine whether or not movement skills in climbing can even be measured reliably, and if the proposed system translates to anything useful for everyday climbers and coaches trying to assess movement.

 

This episode originally aired on July 27, 2022.

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

More Episodes of Breaking Beta: The Science of Climbing Podcast

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Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

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📚CHAPTERS

(00:00) Notes From Kris

(3:11) Introduction

(6:48) Methods

(15:37) Results and Our Thoughts

(27:37) What Should Come Next?

(34:34) Wrap Up

(39:28) Credits and Theme