The Power Company Climbing Podcast

The Shape of Power | Level Up Your Climbing Skills

Check out the new course at the Power Company Climbing Academy - The Shape of Power.
You'll get:
Nearly 3 hours of discussion and instructional videos with Nate and Kris.
In-depth analysis of 10 bouldering case studies, both indoor and out.
4 Practice Sessions to help you start using these skills in the gym.
Downloadable Course Guide Ebook.
Self-paced instruction and unlimited access to course materials.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Gamifying Climbing

This episode is the first 40 minutes of a nearly 2 hour long episode about gamifying climbing, and the pros and cons of individual popular games that many of us play. 
To get the final hour of this episode, and at least 2 bonus Board Meetings every month, become a Patron!
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Nature Untold | Eating Disorder Recovery

In this episode we hear from Emily Holland at Nature Untold, in a re-airing of her episode Eating Disorder Recovery - We Can All Do Better Together. 
Featured in this episode are Dr. Jennifer Gaudiani, Jenna Celmer, and Caroline Wickes.
 
Resources for eating disorders:
The Gaudiani Clinic Website
The Gaudiani Clinic Instagram (has free resources and information)
Full Gaudiani Clinic Resources List
Catch up with Jenna Celmer:
Jenna’s Instagram
Catch up with Caroline Wickes:
Caroline’s Instagram
Article: Weighing In: Does Climbing Need an Eating-Disorder Intervention?
Episode: Caroline Wickes | Eating Disorders in Climbing
Thank you, as always, for listening to this episode. Please follow along on the show’s Instagram, our private Facebook group, or wherever you’d like. We also have a Patreon if you’re interested in supporting everything Nature Untold is cooking up.
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Learn more about Hip Hop Taught Me Everything.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BREAKING BETA | Are Repeaters the Best Hangboard Protocol for Climbing Endurance?

Today I'm bringing you the season finale of my other climbing podcast, all about the science of climbing, Breaking Beta.In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez:
Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers
authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzalez-Badillo; published in the Journal of Human Kinetics in 2019.
They’ll attempt, once more, to determine whether or not scientific evidence exists in favor of a single hangboard protocol being more effective than the rest. Tune in to find out if we have a clear winner in the ring between Max or Intermittent Hangs, or if Paul and Kris are destined to be discussing hangboard studies for many more seasons to come!
 
*Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode:
From Episode 1: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology, 2012.
 
Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share!And please, just like in Episode 1, tell all of your ridiculous friends who still claim that they know the best hangboard protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them.
 
Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.
 
Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram 
Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram 
If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.
Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

BOARD MEETINGS | Performance Shortcuts That Might Stunt Your Growth (Bonus Episode)

2 million downloads. Whew. Who knew, 260-some episodes ago that we'd get here? To say thanks for all of the support, I've got 3 bonuses for you:
#1: This episode is a bonus from the We Scream Like Eagles Patron Only Podcast. If you're interested in getting more like this, you can become a Patron.
#2: We're giving away three free self-guided Proven Plans. To enter to win, all you have to do is sign up for the Plug Tone Audio newsletter. You can do that at the bottom of the page at www.plugtoneaudio.com  We'll be drawing the three winners on Friday, 2/28/22
#3: I'm taking a break. I'll be working on Plug Tone and building new shows for you, and I'll be back with renewed focus, a slightly new format, and an even better version of this show.
Thanks.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Josh Muller, Jordan Jasper, and Nic Nolet | Building Community

Climbing gyms have become big business. Giant gyms are popping up all over the world, with bigger walls, more holds, and massive square footage - but what of the community? Is it being left behind in favor of selling memberships?
Not necessarily.
Long time climbers Josh Muller and Regan Kennedy own Bolder Climbing Community in Calgary, and through their branding and community-focused efforts, they’ve built a thriving business that withstood the pandemic and still keeps them excited to climb.
In this episode I sit down with Josh, gym manager Jordan Jasper, and photographer/videographer Nic Nolet to discuss the idea of community and what it means to each of them.
In this episode we discuss:
Why having “community” in the name is important.
How a welcoming community draws people in.
The role of mentors.
Should gym mentorship extend to the outdoors?
How gym layout and merch can help build community.
How building community translates to good business.
Find Bolder Climbing Community online.
Bolder on Instagram.
Josh on Instagram.
Jordan on Instagram.
Nic on Instagram.
Work with Nic on your photo and video projects.
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Check out our Proven Plans and be ready for the spring season!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Aman Anderson | Coaching for Culture

The best coaches understand more than just which muscle is the prime mover in a specific lift. They understand sports science, behavior, habits, motivation, and maybe most important: struggle. Aman Anderson understands all of these things and more. And he thinks big.
As if being a small business and gym owner isn’t enough, Aman also dedicates his time to coaching the next generation of climbers and building one of the most exciting competitions to hit climbing in many years: The Beast Fingers Loud Climbing Combine.
The BFL Combine is a blend of sports science, climbing culture, and urban culture. Loud music, deep bass, strong climbers, and feats of strength. The next combine will happen on April 9, 2022 in Denver, CO.
Get Registered!
Beast Fingers Climbing
Beast Fingers on Instagram
BFL Combine on Instagram
Watch the video about Aman.
If you want to get involved, email Aman at beastfingerstraining@gmail.com
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The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Emily Holland | Rediscovering a Love of Climbing

Climbing is complicated. It’s physical, emotional, psychological, and depending on the person, tends to either quiet or amplify the things you have going on outside of climbing. Not to mention, the climbing community can come with its own bad habits that might feed your demons.
Emily Holland is a podcast coach and host of the incredible podcast Nature Untold. She tells stories of addiction and recovery in the outdoor community. Today we tell her story. A story of how sobriety helped her find her way back to climbing, and how a supportive community has made all the difference.
In this episode we discuss:
Why climbing was a toxic place for her.
What changed her mindset.
How’s she’s leaning in a little at a time.
The role that sobriety - and Nature Untold - played.
How a caring community can make the difference.
Find Emily online.
Learn more about Nature Untold.
Find Emily on Instagram at Instagram
We don't tweet. We scream like Eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | How To Make the Most of a Board Session

Whether a Moon Board, Tension Board, Grasshopper, Kilter, or any of the other number of boards making their way into climbing gyms or homes worldwide, there are certainly ways to get more out of them. Assuming you have other options for training and climbing, there are also many things the boards don't do so well. 
In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss the ups and downs of board climbing, including a collection of drills we've made specifically for the boards. 
Check out our Proven Plans.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Veronica Baker | The Climbing Initiative

The Climbing Initiative is a nonprofit supporting the sustainable and equitable growth of climbing worldwide. It began in 2019 as a research project at Yale University documenting the international expansion of climbing and its economic, social, and environmental effects. Now the group advises climbing organizations, spreads best practices, and works directly with climbing communities around the world to help them flourish.
Today I sit down with Executive Director Veronica Baker to discuss the mission of The Climbing Initiative (TCI) and the challenges they - and we as the global climbing community - face. 
We also discuss their Best Practices project - a collection of living documents that is gathering the voices of climbing leaders around the world to shape the future development of our sport.
As climbing grows, it is having incredible economic, social, and environmental impacts. Climbers are creating new hotspots for ecotourism, building tight-knit communities, advocating for the conservation of natural areas, and using climbing to uplift and inspire.
In their work partnering with local climbing communities, they’ve connected with many climbing leaders paving the way with innovative approaches. As a result, the Best Practices are focused on six main areas:
crag development & maintenance
environmental conservation
equity & inclusivity
community engagement
economic impact
building climbing organizations
Support The Climbing Initiative.
Check out the Best Practices.
Watch the Access Fund videos we mention in the episode.
Find TCI on Instagram.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.