The Power Company Climbing Podcast

BOARD MEETINGS | Performance Shortcuts That Might Stunt Your Growth (Bonus Episode)

2 million downloads. Whew. Who knew, 260-some episodes ago that we'd get here? To say thanks for all of the support, I've got 3 bonuses for you:
#1: This episode is a bonus from the We Scream Like Eagles Patron Only Podcast. If you're interested in getting more like this, you can become a Patron.
#2: We're giving away three free self-guided Proven Plans. To enter to win, all you have to do is sign up for the Plug Tone Audio newsletter. You can do that at the bottom of the page at www.plugtoneaudio.com  We'll be drawing the three winners on Friday, 2/28/22
#3: I'm taking a break. I'll be working on Plug Tone and building new shows for you, and I'll be back with renewed focus, a slightly new format, and an even better version of this show.
Thanks.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Josh Muller, Jordan Jasper, and Nic Nolet | Building Community

Climbing gyms have become big business. Giant gyms are popping up all over the world, with bigger walls, more holds, and massive square footage - but what of the community? Is it being left behind in favor of selling memberships?
Not necessarily.
Long time climbers Josh Muller and Regan Kennedy own Bolder Climbing Community in Calgary, and through their branding and community-focused efforts, they’ve built a thriving business that withstood the pandemic and still keeps them excited to climb.
In this episode I sit down with Josh, gym manager Jordan Jasper, and photographer/videographer Nic Nolet to discuss the idea of community and what it means to each of them.
In this episode we discuss:
Why having “community” in the name is important.
How a welcoming community draws people in.
The role of mentors.
Should gym mentorship extend to the outdoors?
How gym layout and merch can help build community.
How building community translates to good business.
Find Bolder Climbing Community online.
Bolder on Instagram.
Josh on Instagram.
Jordan on Instagram.
Nic on Instagram.
Work with Nic on your photo and video projects.
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Check out our Proven Plans and be ready for the spring season!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Aman Anderson | Coaching for Culture

The best coaches understand more than just which muscle is the prime mover in a specific lift. They understand sports science, behavior, habits, motivation, and maybe most important: struggle. Aman Anderson understands all of these things and more. And he thinks big.
As if being a small business and gym owner isn’t enough, Aman also dedicates his time to coaching the next generation of climbers and building one of the most exciting competitions to hit climbing in many years: The Beast Fingers Loud Climbing Combine.
The BFL Combine is a blend of sports science, climbing culture, and urban culture. Loud music, deep bass, strong climbers, and feats of strength. The next combine will happen on April 9, 2022 in Denver, CO.
Get Registered!
Beast Fingers Climbing
Beast Fingers on Instagram
BFL Combine on Instagram
Watch the video about Aman.
If you want to get involved, email Aman at beastfingerstraining@gmail.com
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The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Emily Holland | Rediscovering a Love of Climbing

Climbing is complicated. It’s physical, emotional, psychological, and depending on the person, tends to either quiet or amplify the things you have going on outside of climbing. Not to mention, the climbing community can come with its own bad habits that might feed your demons.
Emily Holland is a podcast coach and host of the incredible podcast Nature Untold. She tells stories of addiction and recovery in the outdoor community. Today we tell her story. A story of how sobriety helped her find her way back to climbing, and how a supportive community has made all the difference.
In this episode we discuss:
Why climbing was a toxic place for her.
What changed her mindset.
How’s she’s leaning in a little at a time.
The role that sobriety - and Nature Untold - played.
How a caring community can make the difference.
Find Emily online.
Learn more about Nature Untold.
Find Emily on Instagram at Instagram
We don't tweet. We scream like Eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | How To Make the Most of a Board Session

Whether a Moon Board, Tension Board, Grasshopper, Kilter, or any of the other number of boards making their way into climbing gyms or homes worldwide, there are certainly ways to get more out of them. Assuming you have other options for training and climbing, there are also many things the boards don't do so well. 
In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss the ups and downs of board climbing, including a collection of drills we've made specifically for the boards. 
Check out our Proven Plans.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Veronica Baker | The Climbing Initiative

The Climbing Initiative is a nonprofit supporting the sustainable and equitable growth of climbing worldwide. It began in 2019 as a research project at Yale University documenting the international expansion of climbing and its economic, social, and environmental effects. Now the group advises climbing organizations, spreads best practices, and works directly with climbing communities around the world to help them flourish.
Today I sit down with Executive Director Veronica Baker to discuss the mission of The Climbing Initiative (TCI) and the challenges they - and we as the global climbing community - face. 
We also discuss their Best Practices project - a collection of living documents that is gathering the voices of climbing leaders around the world to shape the future development of our sport.
As climbing grows, it is having incredible economic, social, and environmental impacts. Climbers are creating new hotspots for ecotourism, building tight-knit communities, advocating for the conservation of natural areas, and using climbing to uplift and inspire.
In their work partnering with local climbing communities, they’ve connected with many climbing leaders paving the way with innovative approaches. As a result, the Best Practices are focused on six main areas:
crag development & maintenance
environmental conservation
equity & inclusivity
community engagement
economic impact
building climbing organizations
Support The Climbing Initiative.
Check out the Best Practices.
Watch the Access Fund videos we mention in the episode.
Find TCI on Instagram.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Lauren Abernathy | From Weekend Warrior to Full Time Coach

In this episode I sit down with my friend Lauren Abernathy, who you might recognize from Good Spray Coaching. We first discuss the change from being a weekend warrior to being in the midst of her first trip specifically for a big, ambitious project as a full time coach who can climb when she wants to. We also get into the challenges of being a female coach - having your expertise questioned and dealing with the abundance of mostly male internet idiots. 
You can find Lauren online at Good Spray Climbing.
Follow her on Instagram.
From now until the end of December, use the code GOODSPRAY to get 20% off of any of her self-guided programs you'll find HERE.
NEW PLUGTONE PODCAST ALERT! 
Breaking Beta drops on Wednesday Dec. 8th!
We are happy to welcome Switchback: An Outdoor Community Podcast hosted by Kelsee Keitel, a licensed educator and outdoor based mental health counselor. You can listen to a short episode that I really enjoyed, Curiosity Killed the Criticism, on Spotify or on Apple Podcasts.
And in this very episode we announce a brand new podcast we have in development! Go listen!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Introducing: Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Podcast

Introducing a new podcast brought to you by Power Company Climbing, Crux Conditioning, and Plug Tone Audio: Breaking Beta!
Is it possible to make research and science both more fun - and frankly - more useful for coaches and climbers?
That’s what we needed to answer. Now that we’re a few episodes into recording this podcast, I can honestly answer YES. It takes a lot of work, but yes. Our goal is to do that work for you.
In this podcast, coaches Paul Corsaro and Kris Hampton are getting together in the lab weekly to look at the body of research - both climbing specific and more general sports science - that is often cited by climbers on their quest to improve. We’ll take each study, break it into its components, explain it in a way that doesn’t make your eyes glaze over, and then discuss what we find useful and as well as the ways in which these studies are so wildly misinterpreted by damn near every one of us.
Season 1 of Breaking Beta drops on Wednesday, December 8th. Every week for 10 weeks we’ll be getting deep into finger strength, tendon health, creatine, flexibility, climbing specific injury, and more. What the research says, what it doesn’t, and how you’ve been getting it all wrong.
Make sure you’re subscribed, hit the follow button on Spotify, and tell your friends to tell a friend. Particularly that one friend who is always citing his wild misinterpretation of the research. Tell him you’ve got the perfect podcast for him.
Brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning.
Find Kris and our main Breaking Beta content on Instagram.
Find Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram.
Get transcripts, citations, and more at our site.
Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.
Breaking Beta is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

A Letter to Alex Johnson

Dear Alex,
Congrats on 100 V10's! 
 
Follow Alex on Instagram.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Andy Leung | Routesetting as Both Creative Outlet and Career

Andy Leung is the head setter of Climb Time Cincinnati - a community that is near and dear to my heart. In this episode we discuss not only the career of routesetting, but also what it means to both the setter and the community, how it can help us all grow, and what to keep in mind in order to keep moving forward. 
Follow Andy on Instagram.
Learn more about Climb Time.
You can find the Breaking Beta Podcast on Spotify and on Apple Podcasts.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.