The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Dr. Tyler Nelson | Making Sense of Science for Climbers

Science and Data are increasingly popular in training for climbing, and for good reason. Leading that charge is Dr. Tyler Nelson of Camp 4 Human Performance. He's built a strong following on Instagram, and is giving solid information to coaches and climbers all over the world, but as with any post on social media, much of the context is lost. Context that I feel is massively important. 
In this episode Tyler and I sit down at The Donut Distillery in Nashville, on our way to teach together at the Performance Climbing Coach Seminar, to discuss how to look at the research, whether science is the end all be all, and what exactly is the context for all of this information. 
We also reveal the winner of the Instagram Donut Contest!
You can find Tyler at https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/ and on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/c4hp
You can register for the next Performance Climbing Coach Seminar at https://performanceclimbingcoach.com/
We don't tweet. We scream like Eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Will Anglin & Michael Rosato | Boards vs. Spray Walls

A home wall can be an extremely valuable tool to have at your disposal. Deciding to have one is easy, but that one decision will open up a world of damned near impossible to make decisions. Set board or spray wall? If a board, which one? If a spray wall, what angles, what density, WHICH GRIPS??
So. Many. Decisions.
In this episode Nate and I sit down at Tension Climbing to talk with Will Anglin and Michael Rosato about the first of those impossible decisions - board or spray wall. They have both at their disposal at the Tension Climbing Center, so they intimately understand the benefits and challenges of each.
One of those challenges is that it can be tough to fit a set board into many homewall user spaces. Tension has come up with a solution - their SHORT (H:10ft x W:8ft) and SHORT AND NARROW (H:10ft x W:5ft) “crops” of the Tension Board. It’s essentially the same set, just cropped to a smaller dimension with it’s own set of problems in the Tension App. These guys just keep innovating.
Learn more about the new Cropped Tension boards at:
https://www.tensionclimbing.com/product/tension-board-sets/
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

The BlackHeathens | Intentional Climbing Community

"A room full of superheroes," is how this conversation was described by an Australian climber at Mt. Arapiles. He's not wrong. In this episode I sit down in Blackheath at the home of Tom O'Halloran and Amanda Watts with a who's who of Aussie climbing to discuss the idea of Intentional Community. Besides Tom and Amanda, we talk with Lee Cossey and Andrea Hah, Lee and Sam Cujes, Julian Saunders, David Brailey, and Vince Day. While we're missing a few key Blackheathens, we got a pretty good representation. 
Stick around to the very end! 
You can find the Baffle Days podcast HERE and HERE
Connect with Amanda Watts nutrition services HERE
Check out Day Gallery HERE
Connect with Dr. J - Julian Saunders HERE
Everyone on Instagram at:
https://www.instagram.com/tom_ohalloran
https://www.instagram.com/a.mandawatts
https://www.instagram.com/leecossey
https://www.instagram.com/andreahah
https://www.instagram.com/flashandsass
https://www.instagram.com/david_brailey
https://www.instagram.com/leecujes
https://www.instagram.com/day_gallery_blackheath
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Top 5 Reasons Hangboarding is Important

Hangboarding is overrated, but it's also important.
Please, for the sake of all that is good in humanity, listen to Episode 143 before you listen to this one. Every time someone listens to this episode out of order, the climbing gods will remove the obvious start to another undiscovered classic boulder. Don't let this happen! 
In this episode Nate and I sit down to discuss the antithesis to the previous episode. Hangboarding is important.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Top 5 Reasons Hangboarding is Overrated

Yes, you read that correctly. OVERRATED.
In this episode Nate and I sit down to discuss the top 5 reasons why one of the most popular forms of training for climbing is simply being blown out of proportion. Sue me.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Ravioli Biceps | Moonboard Benchmarking

I'm fairly sure I've gotten more DMs asking when this episode is coming than any other. And it's a good one. 
Today's guest is Moonboard legend Ravioli Biceps - the first (and currently only?) person to send all of the Benchmarks on the 2016 Moonboard set. We discuss his history with the Moonboard as well as his struggle with the transition to identifying as a "Moonboarder". We also find out about the genesis of the name Ravioli Biceps. 
Legend. 
To see the shirts mentioned in the episode go HERE.
To buy the shirts go HERE. 
Find Ravioli Biceps on Instagram HERE.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Lee Cujes | Is It Really A Plateau?

Sometimes you're improving, but the grades don't reflect that. Does that mean you're on a forever plateau? 
In this episode I sit down in the Red River Gorge with Aussie legend Lee Cujes  - really just to learn more about him. We didn't have a specific direction we wanted to go when we sat down. I just knew I should turn the mic on and ask him questions. 
Besides being always stoked for climbing and training, Lee also has an incredible outlook on progression and doing it his way. An outlook that a lot of us could take a piece away from to improve our own. 
To learn more about Lee and his history, be on the lookout for an Enormocast episode coming soon and listen to this excellent episode from Aussie podcast Baffle Days. 
You can find Lee on Instagram at www.instagram.com/leecujes
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Top 5 Reasons Climbers Should Use Kettlebells, with Paul Corsaro

In this Board Meeting, Nate is temporarily replaced by our Strength and Conditioning Coach, Paul Corsaro. Paul is a kettlebell expert (among other things), and has converted me. We discuss our top 5 reasons for continuing to use kettlebells in our own training as well as in programming for our athletes. 
You can find our Kettlebells for Climbers plan at https://gumroad.com/l/LNxaD
You can find Paul at www.cruxconditioning.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Lee Cossey | Damage Control in Chaos

If Australian Lee Cossey lived in North America, he’d be a name mentioned alongside Tommy Caldwell and Sonnie Trotter as one of the best all around climbers on the planet. That’s because he IS one of the best all around climbers on the planet. For some reason, despite the internet making information easy to share, we in the US are largely blind to what else - or who else - is out there.
Lee has not only established and climbed 5.14+ and hard double digits boulders, he’s also freed several El Cap routes - done in a single push with no fixed ropes - and climbed huge Patagonian walls (Riders on the Storm). He’s also a physio and climbing coach. And husband. And dad. Lee’s wife, Andrea Hah, who makes a cameo in this episode, is an exercise physiologist and bonafide badass herself - maybe Australia’s best female all around climber. She and Lee own and operate Move Clinic, a one stop shop for keeping and making athletes strong and healthy, as well as Camp Street Climbing, an adjoining climbing gym, both located in Katoomba.
I sat down with Lee at his home in the Blue Mountains to discuss some of his philosophies as both a coach and as one of Australia’s strongest (and best) climbers. He’s a legend around there - deservedly so - and like so many legends in this sport, you’d never know unless someone else pointed it out for him.
I’m here to point it out.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Dru Mack | Endurance Climbing

Honorary co-host Dru Mack is back in the building, and this time we're talking about what might be Dru's bread and butter - endurance climbing. We both learned to climb in the Red River Gorge, an area famous for it's steep, pumpy climbing, so we both think we're experts on the subject, and we both believe that many of today's coaches are getting it wrong. 
We're also, concurrently with this episode, dropping a training program that Dru and I have spent the last week building specifically for people who are going to be heading to the Red River Gorge - though it can be useful for trips to anywhere with the same pumpy style. Red River Pump Prep is an 8 week online group training program, complete with video descriptions for each workout as well as a group chat with both Dru and I for the duration of the plan. There are only 25 spots available! You can find out more at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/pumpprep
You can find Dru at www.drumackclimbs.com and on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/drumack5
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.