The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Aicacia Young | Health Starts in the Gut

Aicacia Young believes that health begins in the gut, and she LOVES to talk about it. So much so that it almost makes me excited to do the same. Almost. 
In this episode we get into the basics. How do we know we need to improve our gut health and how do we go about it? What products do we use, and how much is enough? And maybe the most fun, what exactly is going on in there that constitutes poor gut health?
Aicacia is a Registered Dietitian and owner of ClimbHealthy.com. She's also the Director of Scientific Affairs at Microbiome Labs, maker of some of her probiotic recommendations, which you can find below. At the time of this interview, she was a freelance copywriter for them. 
Find Aicacia on Instagram HERE
Go HERE for Aicacia's probiotic recommendations.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Do Climbing Gym Grades Matter?

In this episode, in the midst of a gym tour, Nate and I sit down to discuss how we feel about climbing gym grades. Do they matter? Should they be taken seriously? How do they relate to outdoor grades? And possibly most important, what the hell do we do with them?
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Taylor Reed & Bella Jariel | The Coach/Climber Dynamic

Perhaps the greatest attribute of any successful coach is their ability to effectively communicate with their athlete. Without buy in from the climber, no training plan can be effective. Without communication from the athlete, the right changes can't be made. Success is often directly proportionate to that relationship.
In this episode I talk with a successful coach/climber team: Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel. Taylor has helped coach Bella to big success on the international stage. She's the USA Climbing Youth National Champion in speed climbing, as well as a qualifier for the US Youth Team in all 4 disciplines - Sport, Speed, Bouldering, and the Olympic Combined Format.  
In one of my favorite moments of the episode, Bella talks about the photos her mom takes of her, exhausted at the end of a drill prescribed by Taylor. She happily agreed to share those photos with us, and her reasoning is exactly why I wanted to have this conversation. https://powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/4/16/episode-90-the-coachclimber-dynamic-with-taylor-reed-and-bella-jariel
Check out Taylor's Beta Angel Project, a site dedicated to making research and data available and accessible to coaches and climbers. If you're a regular listener, you know that I have an aversion to reading research, though I understand that it's a necessary evil. I'm happy to know that there is a place I can go where other climbers have already examined the research and thought through it. I truly believe this will end up being a go-to resource for the community. 
www.beta-angel.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Peter Bonamici | Become a Better Climber

Peter Bonamici is a midwest legend. He'll disagree with that, but it's my podcast, so I can make that statement if I want to. Not to mention, it's true.
This entire episode stems from a conversation with Peter in which he told me that he'd just learned to heel hook. After climbing his first V13. What?!
It's pretty simple, really. The reason that Peter, and so many other climbers, are legendary, is because they are good at climbing. Not just strong, but GOOD. They didn't get that way by accident. They got that way through a very intentional practice. One that many of us can learn from.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
 

Dr. Jared Vagy | Climb Injury Free, Part 1: Mobility

You've undoubtedly seen the book, the videos, or heard Dr. Vagy in other podcasts. In this 3 part series we're going to dig into the concepts behind the easy to follow system of prehab and rehab that Dr. Vagy has built. 
In Part 1, we're tackling mobility, and how it relates to both avoiding injury and rehabbing from it. Dr. Vagy walks me through many of the mobility drills that he recommends for climbers, and makes it easy for anyone to follow along, which I suggest you do, no matter how silly you think you look. It doesn't look as silly as coming to the gym with an injured finger and a tweaked knee and sitting there spectating. 
Find Dr. Vagy online and buy the book at www.theclimbingdoctor.com
Find the warmup mentioned in the episode at https://youtu.be/B86QxHCDiM0
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Principles vs. Prescriptions

Todays episode is Part 5 in a 5 part series exploring the concept that "Common Sense Isn't Always Common Practice. 
Today we discuss Principles vs. Prescriptions. How do you know which is right for your situation? 
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Training Where You Are vs. Where You Want To Be

Todays episode is Part 4 in a 5 part series exploring the concept that "Common Sense Isn't Always Common Practice. 
Today we discuss Training Where You Are vs. Where You Want To Be. We all want to train like the pros... but should we? Is that even what got them there?
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Generalization vs. Specialization

Todays episode is Part 3 in a 5 part series exploring the concept that "Common Sense Isn't Always Common Practice. 
Today we discuss Generalization vs. Specialization. There is a time to grow your skill set, but it can also be appropriate to focus on one aspect of it. The differences can be subtle.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Pyramids vs. Towers

Todays episode is Part 2 in a 5 part series exploring the concept that "Common Sense Isn't Always Common Practice. 
Today we discuss Pyramids vs. Towers.  Should you be out there building up your base, or is it ok to jump to the next level? There's an argument... and a time... for both approaches. 
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Quality vs. Quantity

Todays episode is Part 1 in a 5 part series exploring the concept that "Common Sense Isn't Always Common Practice. 
Today we discuss Quality vs. Quantity. How much is too much? How can you focus on quality, and when should you? 
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.