The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Alex Honnold & The Warrior’s Way | Mental Fitness

Fresh off of his audacious free solo of Freerider, Alex Honnold sat down with Arno Ilgner and Jeff Lodas from The Warrior's Way to discuss his mental preparation.  Arno asked me to record the conversation, and though I was running around The Salt Palace like crazy, I got it on tape for all of you to hear.  
Two mental fitness giants, discussing a topic that is, at best, tough to pin down.  Alex has done an amazing job of reflecting on what it is that makes him different, and is able to articulate it better in every interview I hear him in.  This one is no different. 
You can find The Warrior's Way at www.warriorsway.com 
You can find Alex at www.alexhonnold.com
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
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Steve Maisch | Comparing Hangboard Protocols

One of the guests most requested by our listeners, Steve Maisch is a Salt Lake City climber/coach/economics professor who, much like myself, uses himself as a guinea pig to test new approaches to training.  As such, we decided to nerd out on a couple of topics.  For this one, we discuss the different hangboard protocols, when and why to use them, what they can do for you, and where they can go wrong.  I'm sure we forgot a few, which is ok, because we can always record more...
You can find Steve online at http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/
We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Hazel Findlay | Flow and Mental Mastery

I'm not often intimidated by people, but Hazel Findlay's reputation is much larger than her 5'2" frame, so I was a bit anxious about this conversation. Mental training can be a pretty nebulous topic to begin with, so if I was going to be stumbling over my words, it could end up being a rough conversation. Not long after Hazel showed up at my house, it was clear that while she is indeed a force to be reckoned with, there was no reason to fret. As she would say, my worry was all "rubbish".  
Hazel has a really great way of taking these concepts that are sometimes tough to connect with and making them seem simple. She struggles through them just like most of us do, and in turn is able to relate to exactly how we all experience fear, doubt, and any other number of emotions that can be both destructive and extremely valuable. I value this insight as a coach, and I look forward to talking with Hazel more in the future.   
In this episode Hazel mentions The Inner Game of Tennis, a classic book about the mental side of performance.  That led me to wonder what other books that Hazel might recommend, so this month we are giving our patrons Hazel's recommended reading list, as well as a bonus episode with fan favorite Steve Bechtel.
You can find Hazel online at www.hazelfindlayclimbing.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Savannah Buik | Understanding Eating Disorders

If you've been around climbing long enough, you know someone who has or has had an eating disorder. While it's not a secret, it's certainly a topic that is generally shamed and then ignored. As a coach, friend, and partner, I wanted to know more about it, how to recognize it, and what to do when confronted with it. 
Savannah Buik reached out to me a little over a year ago to tell me that she had started a blog, partly inspired by my willingness to call people out, that focused on her own struggles with eating disorders. Since then, she's had more struggles, and in this episode we talk more about those tough times.
Savannah offers us an easy way to understand these disorders, a way to recognize when it's a problem, and a way to think about it while approaching a friend in need.  This is a conversation I'm so glad that I sat down for, no matter how uncomfortable the subject is.
You can find Savannah's blog, Crimpin and Biscuits, at www.savannahbuik.com
We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.
 
The climbing community tragically lost Savannah to a climbing accident in March 2018.  Her kindness, openness, and passion for helping others suffering from eating disorders made her an inspiration to many.  If you'd like to support Savannah's passion, consider a donation to Project HEAL, an organization she was proudly involved with, that seeks to provide prevention, treatment, and recovery support to those suffering from eating disorders. Savannah will be greatly missed.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Emily Tilden | Mental Toughness

Here in Lander there is a very strong contingent of powerful women. I'm lucky to have become friends with many of them, and I'm extremely fortunate to be able to count Emily Tilden among those friends.
She is a no bullshit straight shooter, which I value and appreciate, and like many great athletes, she has a mental tenacity that is sometimes difficult to comprehend. I've watched her handily win the pullup comp at the Climbers Festival several times, and I've watched her cruise to an easy win, with a smile on her face, after running 20K at over 9,000 feet.
Emily likes to run long distances. In the mountains. Likes to. What? That just doesn't compute with me. She's a mom that was right back to the gym, with son Wyatt in tow, shortly after giving birth. She also has the often rare ability to vocalize why and how she is able to push through the wall that stops me at about mile #1.
Perhaps even more interesting is that when climbing, she doesn't have the same drive. It occupies a different space for her. Why is that? Why can I go a muerte on a climb, but want to call for a ride home after running a few blocks? What's the difference?
We may actually have a few answers.
Emily is a trainer here in Lander at Elemental Performance and Fitness. She's an NSCA-CPT, and if you're interested in working with her, you can reach her at emily@elementalgym.com 
I promise, she won't bullshit you.
Tell your friends.  We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Shelma Jun | Feminism in Climbing

Shelma Jun is an unapologetic force to be reckoned with, and she's put more thought than most of us into this feminist movement that is rocking the climbing world. To be honest, while I've put a ton of thought into it myself, much of it was in the form of denial. When that began to change, and I opened by eyes a little, I knew I had to have a conversation with Shelma. I'm extremely happy that she was willing to sit down with me and struggle through a tough, but important conversation.  
Some of you will agree. Some of you won't. That's ok. What's important is that we start the conversation, on many levels, and keep it going.  
I've fucked up many times. I'll fuck up more. That's about all that I'm sure of.  
That, and that I'll always make an effort to realize that I don't need to have all the answers.  
You can find Shelma at www.flashfoxy.com and at www.nevernotcollective.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kerry Scott | Pride or Spray?

In today's episode I sit down with Kerry Scott, an unassuming, but very badass young lady from North Carolina.  Besides coaching a youth team at Triangle Rock Club, Kerry is a crusher.  And she's not ashamed to "spray" a little.  And you all know that I'm definitely not afraid to spray, and I appreciate it when others buck the norm.  
I've spent time in North Carolina, and I know that the south and east in particular can sometimes be a place where you're encouraged not to "spray", and I think that is often unfortunate.  I agree that just puffing up to talk about yourself isn't helpful to anyone, but there is a fine line between spray and pride, and I think that Kerry did a beautiful job navigating that with the ascent of her first 14a, Proper Soul. We talk about why she put it out there, and what that's meant to her. We also talk about her support system, and how important it is to have that.
Decide for yourself what's appropriate, but don't let others tell you not to be proud of yourself.
And damn it, tell the world about it if that's what you want to do.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Allison Stowers | Common Climbing Injuries

In this episode Nate and I sit down with Allison Stowers, a Chattanooga climber and physical therapist. We discuss the climber injuries that Allison most often sees in her clinic... shoulders and hip region injuries.  How to self diagnose, when you should see a doctor,  what to do about it, and most important, how to prevent it.  
You can find Allison at www.chattclimberpt.com or at www.peakfitnessandpt.com
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Dr. Lisa Erikson | Finger Health

Fingers are pretty important to us.  At some point, all of us will have a tweak, twinge, or injury, and we'll need to know how to deal with that.  In this episode I sit down with Dr. Lisa Erikson, and we dive deep into the methods behind dealing with finger injuries.  We talk taping, acupressure rings, voodoo floss, ultrasound, self diagnosis, and more.  
You can find Lisa's products and her book Climbing Injuries Solved, at www.climbinginjuriessolved.com.
If you would like to see her or reach out to her about an injury you have, go to www.lifesportchiro.com
This week the patrons get Lisa's top tips to avoid injury. Become a patron of the podcast for as little as $1 per month at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast.  
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We don't tweet.  We scream like Eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Lantien Chu | A Coaching Masterclass

Lantien Chu is a smiling fountain of wisdom.  She's also coach of the Lander Tigers high school swim team, which has won 21 consecutive state titles.  Most important, she's an exceptional human.  
Wait... 21 consecutive state titles?  Yes, and the team does it without ever cutting a swimmer, including some who can't swim when they join the team.  
That seems like a lot of pressure to endure, year after year, particularly if you're a 16 or 17 year old student.  I needed to know how she coached her team, how her team responds, and if any of those lessons could be applicable to climbing.  
Turns out they all are.  They're also applicable to being an exceptional human.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.