The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Shelma Jun | Feminism in Climbing

Shelma Jun is an unapologetic force to be reckoned with, and she's put more thought than most of us into this feminist movement that is rocking the climbing world. To be honest, while I've put a ton of thought into it myself, much of it was in the form of denial. When that began to change, and I opened by eyes a little, I knew I had to have a conversation with Shelma. I'm extremely happy that she was willing to sit down with me and struggle through a tough, but important conversation.  
Some of you will agree. Some of you won't. That's ok. What's important is that we start the conversation, on many levels, and keep it going.  
I've fucked up many times. I'll fuck up more. That's about all that I'm sure of.  
That, and that I'll always make an effort to realize that I don't need to have all the answers.  
You can find Shelma at www.flashfoxy.com and at www.nevernotcollective.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kerry Scott | Pride or Spray?

In today's episode I sit down with Kerry Scott, an unassuming, but very badass young lady from North Carolina.  Besides coaching a youth team at Triangle Rock Club, Kerry is a crusher.  And she's not ashamed to "spray" a little.  And you all know that I'm definitely not afraid to spray, and I appreciate it when others buck the norm.  
I've spent time in North Carolina, and I know that the south and east in particular can sometimes be a place where you're encouraged not to "spray", and I think that is often unfortunate.  I agree that just puffing up to talk about yourself isn't helpful to anyone, but there is a fine line between spray and pride, and I think that Kerry did a beautiful job navigating that with the ascent of her first 14a, Proper Soul. We talk about why she put it out there, and what that's meant to her. We also talk about her support system, and how important it is to have that.
Decide for yourself what's appropriate, but don't let others tell you not to be proud of yourself.
And damn it, tell the world about it if that's what you want to do.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Allison Stowers | Common Climbing Injuries

In this episode Nate and I sit down with Allison Stowers, a Chattanooga climber and physical therapist. We discuss the climber injuries that Allison most often sees in her clinic... shoulders and hip region injuries.  How to self diagnose, when you should see a doctor,  what to do about it, and most important, how to prevent it.  
You can find Allison at www.chattclimberpt.com or at www.peakfitnessandpt.com
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Dr. Lisa Erikson | Finger Health

Fingers are pretty important to us.  At some point, all of us will have a tweak, twinge, or injury, and we'll need to know how to deal with that.  In this episode I sit down with Dr. Lisa Erikson, and we dive deep into the methods behind dealing with finger injuries.  We talk taping, acupressure rings, voodoo floss, ultrasound, self diagnosis, and more.  
You can find Lisa's products and her book Climbing Injuries Solved, at www.climbinginjuriessolved.com.
If you would like to see her or reach out to her about an injury you have, go to www.lifesportchiro.com
This week the patrons get Lisa's top tips to avoid injury. Become a patron of the podcast for as little as $1 per month at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast.  
Share us on the social medias!  
We don't tweet.  We scream like Eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Lantien Chu | A Coaching Masterclass

Lantien Chu is a smiling fountain of wisdom.  She's also coach of the Lander Tigers high school swim team, which has won 21 consecutive state titles.  Most important, she's an exceptional human.  
Wait... 21 consecutive state titles?  Yes, and the team does it without ever cutting a swimmer, including some who can't swim when they join the team.  
That seems like a lot of pressure to endure, year after year, particularly if you're a 16 or 17 year old student.  I needed to know how she coached her team, how her team responds, and if any of those lessons could be applicable to climbing.  
Turns out they all are.  They're also applicable to being an exceptional human.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Tension Climbing | A Better Strip of Wood

Tension Climbing makes wood climbing holds.  Why wood? That's exactly what I wanted to know.  I've long known that I'm a fan of climbing on wood, and I have my reasons, but I've never put even remotely close to as much thought into it as the guys at Tension have.  
I sat down with Will Anglin and Ben Spannuth to discuss their products, the reason behind their shapes, what their favorites are, and more.  They just released two new hangboards... The Grindstone and The Grindstone Pro.  If you're in the market, you want one (or both) of these.  Trust me.  We go in depth on these two boards, their brilliant travel/warmup board, The Flash Board, their campus rungs, and even touch on their upcoming Tension Board.  I had to stop Will from saying too much... he's just so excited.  
Tension is giving you guys a discount!  15% off of any regularly priced item in their shop.  Simply use the code powercompany at checkout.
You can find them at www.tensionclimbing.com.
We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Angie Payne | World Cup Pressure: Part 3

CLICK HERE TO SEE ANGIE'S PHOTOS FOR THIS EPISODE.  Each episode has it's own Photo Gallery, thanks to Angie Payne.  This is episode 3 of 3.  
Pressure.  No matter if it's a comp, a project outdoors, self inflicted or external, we all feel it.  In these 3 episodes I sit down with good friend Angie Payne and discuss the pressure cooker situation of a World Cup comp.  A few weeks ago Angie and I attended the Vail World Cup, and while I ambushed competitors with my microphone, Angie, a former competitor, captured in photos the emotions that this sort of intense pressure creates.  Then we sat down and discussed it all.  Her photos, the comments from competitors, and our own experience.  We talk with Alex Puccio, Shauna Coxsey, Janja Garnbret, Jan Hojer, and more, and not only can you hear their take on it, but you can SEE their emotion in the photos for each episode.  
You can find more of Angie's photos at www.angiepayne.com
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Angie Payne | World Cup Pressure: Part 2

CLICK HERE TO SEE ANGIE'S PHOTOS FOR THIS EPISODE.  Each episode has it's own Photo Gallery, thanks to Angie Payne.  This is episode 2 of 3.  
Pressure.  No matter if it's a comp, a project outdoors, self inflicted or external, we all feel it.  In these 3 episodes I sit down with good friend Angie Payne and discuss the pressure cooker situation of a World Cup comp.  A few weeks ago Angie and I attended the Vail World Cup, and while I ambushed competitors with my microphone, Angie, a former competitor, captured in photos the emotions that this sort of intense pressure creates.  Then we sat down and discussed it all.  Her photos, the comments from competitors, and our own experience.  We talk with Alex Puccio, Shauna Coxsey, Janja Garnbret, Jan Hojer, and more, and not only can you hear their take on it, but you can SEE their emotion in the photos for each episode.  
You can find more of Angie's photos at www.angiepayne.com
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Angie Payne | World Cup Pressure: Part 1

CLICK HERE TO SEE ANGIE'S PHOTOS FOR THIS EPISODE.  Each episode has it's own Photo Gallery, thanks to Angie Payne.  This is episode 1 of 3.  
Pressure.  No matter if it's a comp, a project outdoors, self inflicted or external, we all feel it.  In these 3 episodes I sit down with good friend Angie Payne and discuss the pressure cooker situation of a World Cup comp.  A few weeks ago Angie and I attended the Vail World Cup, and while I ambushed competitors with my microphone, Angie, a former competitor, captured in photos the emotions that this sort of intense pressure creates.  Then we sat down and discussed it all.  Her photos, the comments from competitors, and our own experience.  We talk with Alex Puccio, Shauna Coxsey, Janja Garnbret, Jan Hojer, and more, and not only can you hear their take on it, but you can SEE their emotion in the photos for each episode.  
You can find more of Angie's photos at www.angiepayne.com
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Jason Kehl | Aggressive Creativity

We all like to call climbing an art form, but very few of us take it to the high degree that Jason Kehl does.  From his haircut to his hold lines, his videos to his gym designs, Jason is anything but conventional, and that's exactly why he's so compelling.  I needed to know what fueled his creativity, wanted to dig into his process, and secretly just had to see his home wall.   He's been incredibly successful at rolling all of his interests into one brand... something I've tried hard to emulate, and I appreciate how through it all he's kept true to himself, his vision, and his integrity.  That's not an easy task.
Find Jason online at www.cryptochild.com
Share us on your social medias!  We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.