The Power Company Climbing Podcast

REWIND | BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing

Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement than the technique-based way we’ve always done it.  In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss ideas presented by author Josh Waitzkin about our mental models for learning, specifically after hearing him as a guest on Tim Ferriss's podcast, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.
This episode originally aired on April 5, 2020.
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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
THE CURRENT | Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills
TAPED TIPS | Difficulties Should Be Desirable
TAPED TIPS | When Beta Isn’t Better
BOARD MEETINGS | Common Sense vs. Common Practice
Josh Waitzkin on Beginner’s Mind, Self-Actualization, and Advice from Your Future Self | The Tim Ferriss Show
The Art of Learning: An Inner Journey to Optimal Performance by Josh Waitzkin
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🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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📚CHAPTERS
(0:00) Theme
(0:37) Intro
(2:29) Topic Description
(4:09) New Feedback Paradigms and Opportunities
(8:28) More Feedback isn’t Always Better
(12:00) Observation and Building Awareness
(17:07) How Routesetting Helps Understand Movement
(19:26) When the Poetic Perfection Has Been Marred
(24:03) Unexpected Learning From What You Deem Not Useful
(32:15) The Thematic Elements of Climbing Movement
(39:58) Self Expression via Movement
(43:29) Reps Hidden in Plain Sight
(51:22) The Ultimate Way to Get in High Quality Reps
(55:24) Hidden Reps We Often Miss
(01:02:14) The Gap in Our Confidence
(01:05:35) Comp Boulders and Discomfort
(01:08:10) How the Best Climbers React to Discomfort
(01:10:35) Setting Hard Things for Yourself
(01:22:41) Put the Wrench Away
(01:13:54) Outro

EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)

Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:00) Guest Introduction
(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories
(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides
(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods
(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing
(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards
(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach
(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching
(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example
(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing
(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling
(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders
(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?
(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill
(40:45) Wrap Up
 

EXPERT | Rob Gray on The Gap Between Sports Science Researchers and Coaches (Part 1)

Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In this Part 1 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the limitations and challenges of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners, as well as some ways both coaches and researchers could do it better.
____________________
EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(1:31) Guest Introduction
(3:20) Topic Explanation
(5:18) Accessibility
(6:13) Impenetrability
(7:33) Generalizability
(8:43) ANNOTATION: Don’t Discount Small Studies
(10:49) Researchers Asking the Wrong Questions
(11:49) How to Make it User Friendly
(19:34) The Value of Case Studies
(22:19) Studies Lack Real World Variables
(24:23) ANNOTATION: Functional Movement Variability
(26:44) What is it We Should be Looking For in Studies?
(30:49) Coaches and Researchers Meeting in the Middle
(33:48) Limitations of Using Studies From Other Sports
(37:24) ANNOTATION: Constraints and Self Organization
(40:54) ”Evidence-Based” Elitism
(43:27) Wrap Up

FOCUS | Movement Skills for Climbers

Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED.
Rather than doing what most podcasts do and jumping from subject to subject with each new episode, we’re going to be spending the next couple of months focused on discussing one topic. Through Board Meetings, Expert episodes, Taped Tips, and our new Builder series that you’ll hear more about later, as well as on Youtube, Instagram, the blog, and the newsletter, for the next 10 or so episodes we’re going to be digging deep into movement and skill acquisition: the research, the theories, anecdotes and experiences, and of course, practical application. And Patrons will be getting bonus episodes on the same topic. At the end of the two or so months, we’ll wrap it all up with a podcast episode and a newsletter.
We’re aiming for 3 or 4 of these FOCUS periods this year; we hope you’ll tune in to see how it goes.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Mentioned in this episode:
Board Meetings | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos
Taped Tips | Connect the Dots
Written In Stone
Movement Practice Resources
The Current
 
You might also enjoy these related episodes:
Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing
P.O.E. with Will Anglin & Rowland Chen
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Indoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Outdoors (Bonus Episode)

Indoor and outdoor climbing have different constraints, and as such, lead you into different solutions for how to interact with that environment. But there are lessons from the climbing gyms that should absolutely be applied to outdoors in order to get the most out of it and become a better climber faster. 
In this bonus episode from our Patron feed, Kris and Nate discuss 3 of their Top 6 Indoor Lessons. To hear their 3 favorites as well, you can get those bonus episodes on Patreon or in your Apple Podcast Feed or on Spotify by subscribing to the We Scream Like Eagles Podcast.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
You might also enjoy this related episode:
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(00:00:00) Introduction
(00:01:24) Topic Explanation
(00:07:13) Be Picky About Projects
(00:15:11) Below Project Level, Climb Everything
(00:27:51) Climbing With and Around Crowds
(00:35:30) Become a Patron to Get the Top 3. Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

BOARD MEETINGS | Outdoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Indoors

Many people view indoor climbing as less serious than climbing outside, but if we're looking to improve, that may be a mistake. There are aspects of climbing outside that lead us into learning specific things that we don't necessarily find as easily indoors. 
In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their top 5 lessons from climbing outside that, when taken indoors, can help us become better climbers faster.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Check out our Proven Plans to jumpstart your intention indoors.
Check out the Comment Card blog post mentioned in this episode.
You might also enjoy these related episodes: 
BOARD MEETINGS: Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing with Taylor Fragomeni
BOARD MEETINGS: How to Make the Most of a Board Session
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. 
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(00:00:00) Introduction and Topic Explanation
(00:05:55) Using and Practicing Better Tactics
(00:14:32) Bring Mid-Session Snacks or Food
(00:25:44) Go In With a Plan
(00:28:38) Power Company Proven Plans
(00:29:18) Set Goals
(00:35:47) Not Complaining About the Setting
(00:48:57) Outro

BOARD MEETINGS | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos

With more and more information out there, it would seem that we can learn faster and better. But that isn't always the case.
In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss why learning is more challenging in our current environment, ways we can better structure our time, tools we can use for learning, and the changes we are making to this podcast and our website in order to make them more valuable learning tools.
____________________
EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related episodes:
BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing
Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:22) Topic Explanation
(4:27) MicroLearning
(5:39) More Content Isn't Better
(9:30) Actively Participating
(14:32) The Problem with Social Media Discourse
(18:54) What to Prioritize
(23:18) Entertainment vs. Education
(25:21) Find the Voices that Resonate
(32:43) Recognize the Biases
(39:56) Follow the Topic
(43:25) Just in Case vs. Just in Time
(50:03) Learning from Video
(58:23) Shape the Algorithm
(1:04:04) Create Playlists and Saved Folders
(1:06:01) Taking Notes and Making it Stick
(1:10:00) Don't Forget the Past Information
(1:12:00) Writing About What You've Learned
(1:17:35) The Things We Are Changing
(1:35:38) Outro

Hubble vs. Action Directe | The World’s First 14d (9a), Featuring Alex Megos and Buster Martin

Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other (sort of). One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble or Action Directe?
In this bonus episode from Written In Stone, we examine the circumstances, discuss where the debate began, and hear from the only two people in the world who have climbed both routes – Alex Megos and Buster Martin – to try and decide once and for all...
...which route was really the world’s first 9a?
Cameos by Adam Ondra, Steve McClure, Ben Cossey, and Ben Moon himself.
 
This is an episode of Written In Stone: Climbing's Most Important Ascents, the latest podcast from Power Company Climbing & Plug Tone Audio.
Find more episodes everywhere you get pods or learn more at: www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
 

REWIND | Hazel Findlay on Flow, Attention, and Letting the Body Climb

Four years ago this month in 2019, Yosemite’s Magic Line, a 5.14 crack originally put up by Ron Kauk and not repeated until more than 20 years later by his son, Lonnie, saw its third ascent. Pushing her limits both physically and mentally, the formidable Hazel Findlay solidified her status as one of the strongest trad climbers in the world with the send. She reflected on her experience working the line at her blog, which is a must-read. Today, we rewind to an episode with Hazel in which she shares strategies for getting into the right mindset to send, strategies she no doubt called on to take down Magic Line. She talks breathing techniques, pre-climbing rituals, flow state, and more.
When this episode was recorded, Hazel was just beginning her journey into being a professional coach, and she has since continued along that path, founding Strong Mind, which specializes in mental training for climbers, and also the Strong Mind Podcast, which she hosts. If you’re interested in learning more about Hazel and Strong Mind’s offerings, check out Hazel’s Performance Hacks course!
 
Read Hazel's blog about her Magic Line experience.
Check out Hazel's Performance Hacks course.
Check out Strong Mind online.
Follow Hazel on Instagram.
This episode originally aired on September 3, 2017.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Jereme Ransick from the RRGCC | If We Own It, They Can’t Close It

The Red River Gorge Climber’s Coalition was one oof the first climber owned organizations to OWN their local climbing. Now they have the opportunity to purchase a huge tract of land with miles and miles of cliffline. Some existing climbing, and a lot of potential climbing of nearly all grades. 
But they need our help to make it happen. 
This might include big donors, partners, or creative development solutions. They are open to all ideas.
You can find them online at RRGCC.org or email them directly at access@rrgcc.org
Kris and Jereme discuss: 
The history of the RRGCC.  
What the RRGCC does and what their mission is.  
The new opportunity to bid on a huge property with miles of cliff line.  
What this might entail and why they need partners. 
The reasons more climbing can be valuable.
How we can help - both now and in general.
What’s on this property? 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.