The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Hubble vs. Action Directe | The World’s First 14d (9a), Featuring Alex Megos and Buster Martin

Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other (sort of). One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble or Action Directe?
In this bonus episode from Written In Stone, we examine the circumstances, discuss where the debate began, and hear from the only two people in the world who have climbed both routes – Alex Megos and Buster Martin – to try and decide once and for all...
...which route was really the world’s first 9a?
Cameos by Adam Ondra, Steve McClure, Ben Cossey, and Ben Moon himself.
 
This is an episode of Written In Stone: Climbing's Most Important Ascents, the latest podcast from Power Company Climbing & Plug Tone Audio.
Find more episodes everywhere you get pods or learn more at: www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
 

REWIND | Hazel Findlay on Flow, Attention, and Letting the Body Climb

Four years ago this month in 2019, Yosemite’s Magic Line, a 5.14 crack originally put up by Ron Kauk and not repeated until more than 20 years later by his son, Lonnie, saw its third ascent. Pushing her limits both physically and mentally, the formidable Hazel Findlay solidified her status as one of the strongest trad climbers in the world with the send. She reflected on her experience working the line at her blog, which is a must-read. Today, we rewind to an episode with Hazel in which she shares strategies for getting into the right mindset to send, strategies she no doubt called on to take down Magic Line. She talks breathing techniques, pre-climbing rituals, flow state, and more.
When this episode was recorded, Hazel was just beginning her journey into being a professional coach, and she has since continued along that path, founding Strong Mind, which specializes in mental training for climbers, and also the Strong Mind Podcast, which she hosts. If you’re interested in learning more about Hazel and Strong Mind’s offerings, check out Hazel’s Performance Hacks course!
 
Read Hazel's blog about her Magic Line experience.
Check out Hazel's Performance Hacks course.
Check out Strong Mind online.
Follow Hazel on Instagram.
This episode originally aired on September 3, 2017.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Jereme Ransick from the RRGCC | If We Own It, They Can’t Close It

The Red River Gorge Climber’s Coalition was one oof the first climber owned organizations to OWN their local climbing. Now they have the opportunity to purchase a huge tract of land with miles and miles of cliffline. Some existing climbing, and a lot of potential climbing of nearly all grades. 
But they need our help to make it happen. 
This might include big donors, partners, or creative development solutions. They are open to all ideas.
You can find them online at RRGCC.org or email them directly at access@rrgcc.org
Kris and Jereme discuss: 
The history of the RRGCC.  
What the RRGCC does and what their mission is.  
The new opportunity to bid on a huge property with miles of cliff line.  
What this might entail and why they need partners. 
The reasons more climbing can be valuable.
How we can help - both now and in general.
What’s on this property? 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Where We Go Wrong When We Get Training Right

You nailed the training and showed up stronger. Still, things went wrong.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Lynn Hill, Katie Brown, and the Importance of Climbing History

The year is 1991.No woman has ever climbed 5.14.One French superstar says that no woman ever will.
But Lynn Hill didn’t listen...
And years later, Katie Brown wouldn't either.
 
This is a sample of Episode 1 of Written In Stone: Climbing's Most Important Ascents, the latest podcast from Power Company Climbing & Plug Tone Audio.
To hear the rest of the episode and learn more, head over to: www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

TAPED TIPS | Stop Applying Training Principles to Climbing Performance

Training principles are important, but when they creep into performance, your climbing will suffer. Nearly every time.
 
Taped Tips is presented by Power Company Climbing and Plug Tone Audio.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents

Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound-designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then. Season One is focused on the 1990’s, and will tell the stories of how sport climbing came to dominate, how women climbers made their mark, and explore the characters who made it all happen. Moon, Skinner, Güllich, Hill, Nicole and more! Like Todd Skinner always said, ”Never let the truth get in the way of a good story.”
 
Learn more at www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
 

REWIND | Miguel and Dario Ventura on Life Imitating Art

If you’re a climber and you haven’t been to Miguel’s Pizza, you probably want to go, or you’ve at least seen a dozen people wearing their t-shirts. Forty years ago, Miguel Ventura moved from Connecticut to Slade, Kentucky and started what was then known as The Rainbow Door, a pizza and ice cream shop that has since become an icon to climbers all over the world. REWIND with us to this classic episode with the man himself, Miguel Ventura, and a special appearance by his son Dario, about art, pizza, climbing, and community.
And to everyone over there off Exit 33, congrats on 40 years!
 
Check out Miguel's Pizza online.
Follow Miguel's on Instagram.
This episode originally aired on December 24, 2016.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Blue Mountains Sport Climbing with Lee Cujes

Looking to climb on gorgeous streaky sandstone cliffs full of high-angled crimps? Look no further than the Blue Mountains, sport climbing mecca of the land down under, boasting thousands of routes.
Legendary Australian climber Lee Cujes spent more than 20 years taking trips to the Blue Mountains before eventually moving there, and now it’s been his local crag for nearly a decade.
 
Head over to this episode's blog post to see Lee's picks for Must-Do Routes, Best Crags for a group, guidebook recommendations, and more.
 
Follow Lee on Instagram.
Check out Lee's Moonboard Benchmark Buster Training Programs.
Support rebolting efforts and trail maintenance in the Blue Mountains.
Support the Australian Climbing Association (NSW)
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Lowpointing: The Most Overlooked Climbing Tactic

You know what highpointing is, and definitely redpointing, but what about lowpointing? And for those of you who know what we’re talking about, do you actually do it? Chances are, you’re not using this tactic to its full potential, which means you’re not using it to your full advantage.
In this Board Meeting, Kris and Nate discuss the tactic of lowpointing, when and why you should use it, and some of the reasons why it remains one of the most overlooked climbing tactics, despite the fact that it could speed up the sending process for many folks.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.