The Power Company Climbing Podcast

REWIND | Jonathan Siegrist on Volume vs. Strength and Climbing as Training

We begin this REWIND episode a little differently, with a call to Jonathan Siegrist while he was recently in Catalunya, Spain, to find out if he knew why we're releasing this on May 18th. It's an interesting fact about his own climbing that he wasn't aware of. Until now.
Since this episode first aired, Jonathan has climbed 5 routes at 5.15b (9b), with his most recent send of “Stoking the Fire” being the first to break his unintentional May hotstreak.
So now, almost 5 years exactly after he ticked his first of that grade, we REWIND to this classic conversation with Jonathan about when and why to change things up in your training, and one thing that training should definitely include a whole lot of: climbing.
Follow Jonathan on Instagram.
This episode originally aired on March 2, 2017.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Justin Brown | Skin Care Tips and Myths for Climbers

When it comes to skincare in the climbing world, Rhino Skin Solutions is the one name you need to know. They’ve got a complete line of products to help you address whatever skin woes you may be having, whether your tips are too wet, too dry, or just totally torn up. Rhino’s founder and CEO Justin Brown joined Kris to explain the different products they offer and how best to use them. And then they chat about some of the best tips and tricks they’ve learned over the years, and also debunk some common myths that seem to pervade the climbing community on the subject of skincare.
Learn more about Rhino's products at Rhino Skin Solutions.
Follow Rhino Skin on Instagram.
Check out the Breaking Beta episode about chalking up that Kris and Justin talk about in today's episode!
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Things That SHOULD Affect Grades But Don’t (Bonus Episode)

In an ideal world, grades would be objective and we’d have some universal formula for how they’re decided. But we don't live in an ideal world.
In this bonus Board Meeting episode, Part 1 of 2 on grades and what affects them, Kris and Nate talk about some things that should be considered when deciding on a grade, but rarely are. They break down these things into two main headings: physical factors (external, environmental, etc.) and user factors (internal, how we as climbers engage with grades) and consider why we seem to ignore some of these factors when determining grades.
 
This is a bonus episode, so if you want to hear Part 2: Things That Shouldn't Affect Grades But Do, and more episodes like this one, become a Patron or Apple subscriber today!
Head over to www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast or subscribe to Power Company + in your Apple Podcasts app!
 

Josie McKee | Exploring Identity and Discomfort (Part 2)

In this, the second of two episodes with seasoned big wall climber Josie McKee, she and Kris sit down to discuss how her recent trip to Yosemite turned out – what went well, what didn’t, what she might do differently to prepare for future trips, and so forth. But the conversation goes far beyond training and tick lists as they consider some hurdles every climber faces at one point or another, hurdles that can hold us back from a fulfilling and sustainable relationship with climbing.
If you haven’t listened to the first episode with Josie yet, do so HERE! Also be sure to check out Josie’s recent blog post HERE!
 
Learn more about Josie's mindset coaching at Mind Athlete.
Follow Josie on Instagram.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Josie McKee | Sport Climbing to Train for Big Walls and Narrowing Failure (Part 1)

Josie McKee has been climbing for more than 20 years, racking up speed records, FA’s, and a huge wealth of experience and knowledge in that time. She’s been up El Cap more than 20 times, even working on the YOSAR team for 3 years. Now based in Lander, she found herself with limestone sport climbing as her primary means to train for a recent Yosemite trip. This is the first of 2 episodes where Kris and Josie discuss how this trip and prepping for it forced Josie to really consider her relationship with climbing – especially in Yosemite – and her identity as a climber.
 
Learn more about Josie's mindset coaching at Mind Athlete.
Follow Josie on Instagram.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

REWIND | Stevie Haston on Climbing 14d at 52 and Common Sense Training

13 years ago this month, British climbing legend Stevie Haston climbed 14d, for the second time that year, at the youthful age of 52. Even more impressive is the fact that Haston did this after recovering from a snowboarding accident in his 40’s that left him questioning if he'd ever climb hard again. So what are the complex intricacies of his training that led to such success? Plain and simple common sense.
 
This episode originally aired on December 6, 2016.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Replicas (Bonus Episode)

It's all the rage. Watching Will Bosi and Aiden Roberts work on the Burden of Dreams replica is fun, but is it valuable for the rest of us?
This episode is the first half of the full episode our Patrons and Subscribers get today. To get bonus conversations like this every month (over 100 in the archive currently!) you can become a Patron or you can subscribe to Power Company + in the Apple Podcast App by clicking on the full version of this episode.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

REMIX | EFFORT: How to Try Harder (featuring Bill Ramsey, Jonathan Siegrist, Jason Kehl, Hazel Findlay and More)

Most of us have never given 100% to an attempt on a rock climb. Most of us just don’t know how. It’s one of the hardest to cultivate components of high performance: effort. So, the big question:
How can we all learn to give more effort?
In this REMIX episode, we'll hear from climbers Bill Ramsey, Jonathan Siegrist, Jason Kehl, Hazel Findlay, Troy Fauteux, and more, as well as author Alex Hutchinson and Hall of Fame linebacker Ray Lewis about how we – the average athlete – can refocus our effort.
Find videos, citations, a full transcript, and more at the blog post for this episode.
REVISIT THE ORIGINAL EPISODES FEATURED IN THIS REMIX:
A Philosophy of Sending with Bill Ramsey
If It Ain't Broke, Fix It Anyway with Jonathan Siegrist
Aggressive Creativity with Jason Kehl
Flow and Mental Mastery with Hazel Findlay
Troy Fauteux | Try Harder
 
Music for this episode comes from Blue Dot Sessions.
Audio clips of Alex Hutchinson come from Press 1 for Nick and Modern Wisdom.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

McKenzie Long | Climbing and Our Changing Relationship with Public Lands

McKenzie Long started climbing like many of us did, indoors, in a midwestern climbing gym, far from the vast landscapes and towering rock formations of the American West. But her love of climbing – and dream of becoming a writer – led her to those places soon enough, and also led her to consider our relationships with those places. Her book, This Contested Land: The Storied Past and Uncertain Future of America’s National Monuments, explores those relationships and their impact.
 
Buy McKenzie's book.
Check out this Q&A with McKenzie about her book.
Follow McKenzie on Instagram.
Hear McKenzie talk more about her book and read selected passages over on the Plug Tone Outdoors channel.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | 5 Reasons Simple Training is Better with Nadya Suntay

With the seemingly endless amount of information available online these days, and the newest training trends popping up in reel after reel on our feeds, it can be pretty tough to know what to keep and what to toss when it comes to our own training, and really tempting to overcomplicate things. In this Board Meeting, Kris chats with our very own coach Nadya Suntay to remind us why it’s better to keep it simple.
 
Interested in working with Nadya?  She's always available to coach you through one of our Proven Plans!  Or check out her Custom Training availability!
Follow Nadya on Instagram!
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.