The Power Company Podcast

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Ep 76: Fueling from Skratch with Dr. Allen Lim

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Dr. Allen Lim is a sports physiologist, author (you can find his great cookbooks below), and founder of Skratch Labs. We sat down at Skratch headquarters in Boulder, Colorado for what might be the most fascinating and easily digestible (pun intended) look at nutrition and hydration ever recorded.  Seriously.  

We talk how hydration works and why water just isn't enough. We also go into recovery and why Skratch decided not to mess with the magic of chocolate milk. Because I think it's important for you (and me) to understand, Allen explains the lineup of Skratch products and how and when to best use them. 

You can find Skratch Labs at www.skratchlabs.com

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Ep 75 Self Worth and China Doll with Heather Weidner

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Heather Weidner doesn't need an introduction, but this episode certainly does. When I recently watched a film made about Heather's ascent of China Doll, putting her into a small group of women to have climbed 14a on gear, I was left with a bad taste in my mouth. It seemed that given the current gender climate, the filmmakers, Jon Glassberg and Caroline Treadway, could have crafted a story that didn't depict Heather as so dependant on her husband, Chris Weidner, for not only support, but to also tell and show her how to climb the route.

Shortly after, Heather wrote a blog post indicating that she felt similar upon seeing the film, and I knew I had to talk to her about it. The omissions, the contradictions, and the lessons. 

You can find Heather online at www.heatherclimbs.com

You can find Jon Glassberg and LT11 at www.lt11.com

You can find Caroline Treadway at http://carolinetreadway.com/

You can see the film at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vZG7FTDM9U

You can read Heather's blogpost at https://heatherclimbs.com/2017/12/08/the-china-doll-contradiction-behind-the-scenes-of-the-film/

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

Episode 74: Nonsighting with Justin Salas

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If you've heard of Justin Salas, you may refer to him as a "blind climber". You'd be wrong. He's a climber who happens to be blind, just like you're a climber who happens to have sight. 

I had the opportunity to session with Justin at Tension Climbing, and it was fascinating to get to observe and be a part of his process, and talking through it with him was just as interesting. The tools that Justin uses to climb into the V-double digits are the same tools that we use, and the same ones that many of fail to cultivate. We've got a lot to learn.

You can find Justin online at www.justinsalas.com

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

Episode 73: The Importance of Travel with Russ Clune

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Russ Clune has climbed in more places than you. That is, unless you're Brittany Griffith (maybe). Climbing since the late 70's, and having climbed in around 50-some countries, I wanted to know what the legendary Clune had learned from other climbers in other cultures, and how he's applied that to his own climbing. His climbing partners are a who's who list of legends: Wolfgang Gullich, Lynn Hill, Patrick Edlinger, Jerry Moffat, Todd Skinner, Ron Kauk, and many others. Russ not only fed off of their abilities, but noticed their tactics and their approach.

Travel is one of the most important and easiest ways to improve as a climber. It doesn't need to be travel to some exotic place. That scrappy limestone cliff in the backwoods can be a perfect place to learn a new technique.

And it doesn't have to be with superstar climbers. There can be as much to learn from how the eager 5.11 climbers conduct themselves as their is by watching Megos on his latest project. 

You can climb with Russ in the Gunks through www.alpineendeavors.com

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast and follow along on my (don't call it a) comeback at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Episode 72: Does Size Matter? with Marina Inoue

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Marina Inoue is a 5'2" force to be reckoned with. She's intimidating until you talk to her, and then she's the sweetest person you've ever met. Then she pulls onto the rock and straight up crushes your project. But you can't be mad at her, because she'd be stoked if the tables were turned.

It was her amazing attitude that led me to talk to her for this interview, and it's the same thing that makes me look forward to the next time I get to climb with her.

You can find her online at www.marinainoue.com

You can find us at www.powercompanypodcast.com

Subscribe to our newsletter at http://eepurl.com/df3bWn

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

 

Episode 71: Board Meetings | Goal Setting

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It's a new year, and it's our 2nd birthday! It's been a wild ride, and I want to say thanks to everyone for being on it with me. 

In this episode Nate and I talk goal setting. Not resolutions. Goals. Different animals altogether. 

How to set appropriate goals, some of the pitfalls, what the research says, and we even give up some of our own goals.  

Speaking of which...

Go to http://eepurl.com/df3bWn to join our mailing list and get our forthcoming newsletter.

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast, and follow along on my own training journey, at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Episode 70: Routesetting with Jonathan Brandt

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Routesetting is hard. You know that if you've tried to set your own problems. It's also hard on the body, so it's difficult to keep a high level of fitness while setting full time. Jonathan Brandt has continued to improve as a climber while simultaneously running the setting crew at Climb Nashville, which is opening two new gyms next year. In this episode we discuss comment boxes, World Cup setting, simulators, and more. 

Jonathan will be hiring routesetters! Hit him up at jonathan@climbnashville.com if you're interested.

Also, definitely check out the Hotter Than Chicken Bouldering Competition hosted by Climb Nashville every July. If you have both fingers AND a stomach of steel, this might just be your ticket to greatness! 

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Episode 69: Raising Them Right with Constance Lightner

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Constance Lightner is, in my mind, a perfect representative for climbing parents. At a time when we're seeing a whole generation of young crushers becoming adults, the role of the parent has become more and more important. Connie didn't have a connection to climbing before her son, National Champion Kai Lightner, found the sport, but she's dove in headfirst and become an official mom for many of America's young superstars. She's one of the people that I make a point to see when I know we're in the same city. Every conversation is both entertaining and informative, and I walk away with jewels that I can apply to my own life, climbing, and business.

You can find Kai online at www.kai-lightner.com  

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanyclimbing

Share us on your social medias! 

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

Episode 68: Board Meetings | I Wish I Knew Now What I Knew Then

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No, that isn't a typo. It would be amazing if we kept all our attributes forever, but the reality is that we lose things, we forget things, and we just stop doing some of the things that made us good to begin with. 

In this episode, Nate and I sit down to discuss the Top 3 things that we used to know and practice, and we wish we still adhered to.

Find us online at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Episode 67: The Work Behind The Body with Kelsey K. Sather

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In this episode I sit down for an important conversation with wordsmith Kelsey K. Sather.  We discuss her series of blog posts titled "The Work Behind the Body", a series of interviews with female outdoor athletes in Bozeman, Montana.  Kelsey delves into the details of Body Image, and that being a topic I don't know much about, I was both excited and nervous to struggle through the conversation.  

Thanks to the Bozeman community, and to Spire Climbing for allowing us to record this conversation live at their gym.  

You can find Kelsey online at www.kelseyksather.com 

You can find the Work Behind the Body series at http://kelseyksather.com/the-work-behind-the-body/

Read Kelsey's beautiful tribute to Inge Perkins at http://kelseyksather.com/journal/in-loving-memory-of-inge-perkins

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

Find us on the social medias and share the podcast with your friends!

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.