The Power Company Podcast

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Ep. 153: Dr. Natasha Barnes | Pain Science for Climbers

If you have been interested in training for climbing for more than a few days, it’s likely that you know of Dr. Natasha Barnes. She’s not only a former national champion climber and champion power lifter, but is a doctor based in San Francisco who specializes in rehabilitation, orthopedic sports medicine and physiotherapy for climbers and lifters.

I’ve known Natasha for some time, and when I booked a workshop in San Francisco, I knew I had to sit down and get her on the show. Hopefully the first of many appearances.

In this episode we discuss pain - how we experience and react to it, as well as actionable ways to try and determine if it’s actually an injury - or just your brain convincing you that it is.

Pain Science Resources

 

You can find Dr. Barnes online at https://natashabarnesrehab.com/

You can find her on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/natashabarnes

 

If you or a person you know has restaurant experience and wants to work in Lander, Wyoming, the Cowfish is hiring a GM! Info at: http://info.landerchamber.org/jobs/info/food-industry-and-restaurants-manager-cowfish-3707

 

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

Check out the all new and updated Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Ep. 152: Alex Megos and Ken Etzel | Rotpunkt

Alex Megos may well be the strongest climber in the world. But is he the best? 

In this episode I sit down with Megos and his good friend Ken Etzel, the director of the new film that we are discussing, Rotpunkt. 

Rotpunkt gives us a rare glimpse into the up and down struggles of someone trying to become the best in the world. Maybe not suprisingly, these are struggles that every single one of us can relate to. Possibly even more fascinating is the bond that was forged between filmmaker and athlete, and the pressures that this bond had to endure while making the film. 

You can find the film at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbWvFjUIt5k

You can find Alex Megos on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/alexandermegos

You can find Ken Etzel on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/ken_etzel

You can find the Petzl Pump Prep Scholarship at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/pump-prep-scholarship

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Ep. 151: Board Meetings | Thanks A Milli

ONE MILLION DOWNLOADS.

Thank you for the continued and growing support! It means the world. 

In this episode, Nate and I sit down to talk about where it all started and why we keep doing it. 

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

Ep. 150: Bill Ramsey | A Philosophy of Sending

Bill Ramsey is a legend. He had achieved near mythical status in the Red River Gorge by the time I started paying attention to sport climbing. Pioneering many of the best hard sport climbs that now draw flocks of people to Kentucky’s steep sandstone crags, Bill wasn’t the typical 24 year old developer with a part time job and nowhere specific to be. He was a Professor of Philosophy at The University of Notre Dame - an over 14 hour round trip to and from The Red - a drive that Bill made weekly. His routes Omaha Beach, Transworld Depravity, Golden Boy, and The Return of Darth Moll, among many other classics, came from this period. He’s done 26 5.14’s - 25 of those after turning 40. Bill recently checked one of his life list, Randy Leavitt’s stunning Jumbo Pumping Hate (14a) at Clark Mountain. He had just turned 59 and was a few days from hip surgery.

To say that Bill is dedicated is a massive understatement, and we haven’t even mentioned his training sessions. Without going too far into detail, Bill has found that marathon sessions work well for him, and he’s stuck to that with great results. Perhaps most intriguing, and most universally applicable, is his idea of The Pain Box, which we discuss in the episode. 

As I get older it gets a little tougher to find the same inspiration in the 20 year old crushers that I once did, and there just aren’t that many 40+ year old climbers still chasing progression. Bill has always been someone I’ve looked up to as not only a great example of perseverance and dedication in his climbing, but in his life choices as well. Bill moved from a tenured position at Notre Dame to UNLV so that he could be closer to the year round climbing in Las Vegas. Not content with a schedule that he could fill with climbing and training, Bill gives back to the community as Vice President of the Southern Nevada Climber’s Coalition.

Every step of the way, a legend.

You can find Bill's full Pain Box essay at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2019/11/11/ep-150-a-philosophy-of-sending-with-bill-ramsey

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Ep. 149: Dr. Jared Vagy on Stretching, Prehab, and Other Hot Topics

For Dr. Jared Vagy's third appearance on the podcast, we decided to tackle a few hotly debated topics - things like stretching, prehab, training "dangerous" grip positions, and more. 

If you haven't listened to Episodes 88 and 107, featuring Jared's Rock Rehab Pyramid, they are worth the time. 

You can find Dr. Vagy online at www.theclimbingdoctor.com

You can get his book, Climb Injury Free, at https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/

Great video from Quinn Henoch on static stretching that we reference in the episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgL8GkzpNsw

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

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