The Power Company Podcast

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Ep. 118: The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez

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Today's guest needs absolutely no introduction, but I'm honored to introduce her anyway. She is famed Spanish researcher, coach and climber Eva Lopez. We sat down in Salt Lake City to discuss the reactions to her research about finger strength, and to find out once and for all, What is the best hangboard protocol? 

You can find Eva and her Fingerboard Training Guide at http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/

You can read Eva's research papers HERE

You can register for the CWA and our workshops there at https://www.climbingwallsummit.org/

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Ep. 117: Form and Function with Ayo Sopeju

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Ayo Sopeju is a competitive climber, head setter at The Minneapolis Bouldering Project, and an artist who takes the utmost care with his work. This care carries over to all that he does - setting, conversation, everything. I wanted to know where the intersection of his detailed art and his setting happens, and how the calmness and flow he exudes coexists with the competition mindset. 

At Ayo's suggestion, we sat down for our conversation at the Minneapolis Institute of Art, which turned out to be the perfect place for this episode. 

Check out Ayo's art HERE, along with links to other places his art has been featured. 

Follow Ayo on Instagram HERE.

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanyclimbing

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Ep. 116: Not So Reckless Abandon with Kyra Condie

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This past October in Minneapolis I had the opportunity to sit down and chat with one of the most exciting comp climbers to watch - recent Pan American Combined Champion Kyra Condie. We talk about coming up in a very testosterone driven climbing culture - one that has shaped much of how Kyra climbs. We discuss her spinal fusion surgery and how that does - or does not - limit her. And of course we get into training for the Olympics, and Kyra's recent switch to full time climbing and training. 

You can find Kyra at https://www.kyracondie.com/

You can follow Kyra on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/kyra_condie

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Ep. 115: Climbing Past Mythology with Brittany Goris

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We all create some sort of mythology around certain routes or grades - a mythology that often says "you don't belong on this route!" Todays guest, Brittany Goris, is no exception to that rule - except that she somehow pushes right through that mythology and sends those routes. I wanted to know how. 

I first learned of Brittany after she redpointed the Index testpiece "City Park", a 13c/d fingercrack with a rich history, and thus, mythology. One that she wasn't immune to, yet she pushed through it. 

You can find Brittany online at http://soclosewiz.tumblr.com/ and on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/gorisb

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Ep. 114: Dealing with Climbing Injury with Esther Smith and Eva Lopez

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In this episode I sit down with two high powered women, Eva Lopez and Esther Smith, to discuss how we deal with climbing injury. Not necessarily the details of how to rehab, but best practices for prevention, psychologically coping with, and getting back to climbing after these injuries. 

You can find Esther Smith at http://www.grassrootsphysicaltherapy.com/

You can find Eva Lopez at http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/

Sign up for our workshops in Houston HERE

Sign up for semi private sessions in Houston HERE

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

Ep. 113: Board Meetings | Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls featuring Dru Mack | Part 5

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The final part of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in. 

To Recap:

5. Bad timing - getting into redpoint attempts too early or too late.

4. Getting stuck in bad beta. 

3. Making the wrong links or letting links expire.

2. Spending too much time on one route or projecting in general.

1. Projecting in the wrong range.

You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.  

Ep. 112: Board Meetings | Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls featuring Dru Mack | Part 4

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Part 3 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in. 

You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.  

Ep. 111: Board Meetings | Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls featuring Dru Mack | Part 3

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Part 3 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in. 

You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.  

Ep. 110: Board Meetings | Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls featuring Dru Mack | Part 2

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Part 2 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in. 

You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.  

Ep. 109: Board Meetings | Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls featuring Dru Mack | Part 1

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For today's Board Meeting, Nate and I sat down with Red River legend Dru Mack to discuss the top 5 most common pitfalls of redpointing. It's a complex process - one that we've all made our share of mistakes in. This conversation ended up being around 2.5 hours long, so I've decided to split it into 5 bite sized pieces over the next week. 

You can find Dru on the instagram at https://www.instagram.com/drumack5

You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.