The Power Company Podcast

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Board Meetings | Why Bouldering May Not Help Your Sport Climbing

It's a widely held belief - and rightfully so - that bouldering will help your sport climbing. But does it always work out that way? If not, why not? 

In this episode I sit down with Nate in Houston to discuss the mistakes that sport climbers make in using bouldering as training. 

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Board Meetings | Popular Climbing Trends We Like

Let's be clear - not every trend is a good one. In this episode, Nate and I sit down in Houston to discuss the trends we've seen recently that we are glad to see becoming popular. 

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Board Meetings | Why Am I Still Getting Pumped?

Literally every season, as soon as people are able to get outside, I get the same message. Dozens of times.

"Why am I still getting pumped? The training didn't work! I wasted all that time!!"

While I can almost understand the gut reaction when you've built up the expectations, I can't sympathize. You should know better. Now you will. 

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Matt Fultz | A New Breed

Episode 160 | 

It used to be that training for climbing was out in the open. Wolfgang trained for the hardest route in the world. John Bachar and the Stonemasters turned Camp 4 into a training gym. Tony Yaniro made no secrets about how hard he trained.

Then sometime in the 90’s it became cool to NOT train. I’m not sure exactly when that was, but by the time I was climbing in the late 90’s there was a fairly large faction of climbers who were disgusted by the fact that some people chose to train.

Recently the tides have changed, and Matt Fultz is one of the pro climbers who has led that charge. He’s not at all shy about his training habit - even going beyond the extremely climbing specific training that most pros will allow to be seen. What I didn’t expect was how much thought and deliberation Matt has put into his training. It kind of blew me away.

A new breed of boulderer, Matt’s training shows up for him in big ways. A glance at his 8a scorecard shows nearly 500 double digit boulders up to V15/16. That’s no accident.

In this episode Matt and I sit down a week before his annihilation of the Hueco Rock Rodeo (video below) for a wide ranging discussion on training, grades, weight loss, and more.

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Brittany Leavitt | Listen + Teach

Brittany Leavitt is an educator. By profession, by passion, and by choice. It’s a choice I appreciate. She’s also a listener, though maybe that goes hand in hand with being an educator. 

I sat down with Brittany because something about the way she presents herself online, and the fact that she's involved in EVERYTHING, made me want to know more about her perspective. She recently went on a roadtrip sponsored by Patagonia, on which she asked important questions to the people she met - I wanted to know how she would answer. 

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Board Meetings | Top 5 Reasons You Abandon the Training Plan

We've all done it, and not always for the right reasons. 

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Yves Gravelle | For the Love of Training

Episode 157 | Yves Gravelle is a legendary Canadian strongman, and pound for pound may have the strongest grip in the world. I suppose that likely helps him climb V14, but it's not the only reason. He's also a workhorse who is a stickler for the details. He's also a father, husband, business owner, and youth coach. Somewhere in there he's found time to be an Armlifting World Champion with numerous world records, as well as a prolific first ascentionist near his home in Ottawa. 

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Some of the tools Yves uses:

Saxon Bar:

Wrist Wrench:

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Ep. 156: Troy Fauteux | Try Harder

Troy Fauteux tries harder than you. His try hard might have gotten him up hard boulders before the mental skills had a chance to catch up - but I suspect those are coming along just fine. 

To make the most of this interview go HERE and watch the video of Troy doing The Mandala in Bishop. THEN listen to the episode. 

Once you're finished, go HERE and watch this video of Troy just two weeks before doing his first V11. Turn up your volume and enjoy. 

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Ep. 155: Board Meetings | Art of the Side Goal

Not all goals need to be major, far off events. Not all goals need to lead you directly toward those major goals. Sometimes it's perfectly ok - even encouraged - to have a side goal. 

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Ep. 154: Dr. Favia Dubyk | Survive to Thrive

The phrase “a force to be reckoned with” doesn’t quite do justice to Dr. Favia Dubyk. Yes, she is a force, but that phrase conjures up images of some stoic, menacing figure, and Favia is the polar opposite of this image. She’s funny, excited, genuine, and unassuming - unless you happen to see her in a tanktop. However, it’s not the biceps that I’m most interested in. It’s the brains and the spirit.

In her 3rd year of medical school Favia was diagnosed with late stage Hodgkin’s Lymphoma and given a few weeks to live. A fight that had nothing to do with biceps ensued, and Favia has now been in remission from cancer for several years.

Yes, she is a survivor, but again, she defies the word. Thriver seems to be a much better fit. Dr. Dubyk finished her degree and now works at the University of New Mexico as a pathologist, having switched her focus from sports medicine surgery to an area where she could impact other people who had been diagnosed with cancer. As is evident from the biceps - she doesn’t pour all of her time into pathology. She’s competed on American Ninja Warrior and climbs at a high level - preferring hard roof climbing to other styles.

We sat down in Hueco Tanks for not nearly enough time to hear the whole story, but plenty to know that Favia is indeed a force.

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