The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Marina Inoue | Does Size Matter?

Marina Inoue is a 5'2" force to be reckoned with. She's intimidating until you talk to her, and then she's the sweetest person you've ever met. Then she pulls onto the rock and straight up crushes your project. But you can't be mad at her, because she'd be stoked if the tables were turned.
It was her amazing attitude that led me to talk to her for this interview, and it's the same thing that makes me look forward to the next time I get to climb with her.
You can find her online at www.marinainoue.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Goal Setting

It's a new year, and it's our 2nd birthday! It's been a wild ride, and I want to say thanks to everyone for being on it with me. 
In this episode Nate and I talk goal setting. Not resolutions. Goals. Different animals altogether. 
How to set appropriate goals, some of the pitfalls, what the research says, and we even give up some of our own goals.  
Speaking of which...
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Jonathan Brandt | Routesetting

Routesetting is hard. You know that if you've tried to set your own problems. It's also hard on the body, so it's difficult to keep a high level of fitness while setting full time. Jonathan Brandt has continued to improve as a climber while simultaneously running the setting crew at Climb Nashville, which is opening two new gyms next year. In this episode we discuss comment boxes, World Cup setting, simulators, and more. 
Jonathan will be hiring routesetters! Hit him up at jonathan@climbnashville.com if you're interested.
Also, definitely check out the Hotter Than Chicken Bouldering Competition hosted by Climb Nashville every July. If you have both fingers AND a stomach of steel, this might just be your ticket to greatness! 
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Constance Lightner | Raising Them Right

Constance Lightner is, in my mind, a perfect representative for climbing parents. At a time when we're seeing a whole generation of young crushers becoming adults, the role of the parent has become more and more important. Connie didn't have a connection to climbing before her son, National Champion Kai Lightner, found the sport, but she's dove in headfirst and become an official mom for many of America's young superstars. She's one of the people that I make a point to see when I know we're in the same city. Every conversation is both entertaining and informative, and I walk away with jewels that I can apply to my own life, climbing, and business.
You can find Kai online at www.kai-lightner.com 
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | I Wish I Knew Now What I Knew Then

No, that isn't a typo. It would be amazing if we kept all our attributes forever, but the reality is that we lose things, we forget things, and we just stop doing some of the things that made us good to begin with. 
In this episode, Nate and I sit down to discuss the Top 3 things that we used to know and practice, and we wish we still adhered to.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kelsey K. Sather | The Work Behind The Body

In this episode I sit down for an important conversation with wordsmith Kelsey K. Sather.  We discuss her series of blog posts titled "The Work Behind the Body", a series of interviews with female outdoor athletes in Bozeman, Montana.  Kelsey delves into the details of Body Image, and that being a topic I don't know much about, I was both excited and nervous to struggle through the conversation.  
Thanks to the Bozeman community, and to Spire Climbing for allowing us to record this conversation live at their gym.  
You can find Kelsey online at www.kelseyksather.com 
You can find the Work Behind the Body series at http://kelseyksather.com/the-work-behind-the-body/
Read Kelsey's beautiful tribute to Inge Perkins at http://kelseyksather.com/journal/in-loving-memory-of-inge-perkins
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Dan John | Now What?

Last summer I started a list titled "Non Climbing (realistic) Dream Guests".  I only got as far as one name: Dan John.  I was planning to be in Salt Lake for the OR Trade Show, so I emailed Dan on the off chance that he'd do an in person conversation.  To my surprise he emailed back almost immediately, scheduled a call for the next day, and invited me to his house to workout and record the conversation. 
If you've taken even a cursory look into the field of Strength and Conditioning, you've seen the name Dan John repeatedly. He's often quoted by other coaches, including all of us here at Power Company Climbing, and his pragmatic approach to training is one that has resonated with me since I read his book, Easy Strength, co written with kettlebell guru Pavel Tsatsouline.
I went to his house to discuss his newest book, "Now What?", which asks and answers the important questions that coaches and athletes often forget to ask. After you've done your assessments, you've trained and met the standards, you've won or lost, or your season is over... Now What?  This book follows two other excellent books from Dan called "Intervention" and "Can You Go?", both of which should be required reading for coaches.
The wisdom that Dan shares concerning coaching and dealing with athletes is impossible to overvalue. While he's worked with Olympic and Professional athletes, he still makes time for an open workout in his simple garage gym at 9:30 every morning, where he both dispenses knowledge and learns from whoever shows up that day.  After a workout in Dan's gym, this style of what Dan calls "intentional community" is exactly how I plan to build my own home gym. 
You can find Dan at www.danjohn.net
We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BOARD MEETINGS | Five Minute Fingers

It's been a while since Nate and I sat down and did one of these, so we figured we'd kick it back off with a shorty.  The interwebs are going crazy with Andrew Bisharats new miracle hangboard program, Five Minute Fingers, and we've gotten several messages asking for our opinion.  
Here it is.
You can find the original article at www.eveningsends.com/five-minute-fingers
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
 

Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset

Growth Mindset has recently become a hot topic in the world of sports, and for good reason. Mindset, which can be greatly affected by the feedback you give or receive, is key to learning and performance. Trevor Ragan is one of the most well versed in the science of learning and how mindset affects it, and he's out there working with teams, coaches, teachers, and businesses to actually apply the science.
Trevor is the founder of Train Ugly, a group dedicated to sharing the science behind mindset, feedback, and the learning process, and how it relates to performance.  I highly suggest you visit Train Ugly online and spend time watching their excellent videos or reading their material.  It'll be time well spent.  
During our conversation, Trevor gave me a great list of resources where we can learn more about these topics.  If you buy through our links at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2017/11/6/episode-64-fixed-vs-growth-mindset-with-trevor-ragan-from-trainugly, we get a small percentage from Amazon (it doesn't raise your prices) to help support the podcast.
Find Trevor online at www.trainugly.com
We don't tweet.  We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Tommy Caldwell | Belief and Partnership

Tommy Caldwell needs no introduction to any of you. I thought I knew it all too, until I read his recent memoir, The Push. If you haven't read it, buy it HERE and read it NOW! I'm not sure exactly what I expected from the book, but I didn't expect Tommy to have looked so deeply into his own past and motivations in order to discover where his nearly maniacly focused drive comes from. Put simply, it blew me away.
Tommy stopped over to sit and chat with me in Lander about two of the topics that I felt permeate his climbing: Belief and Partnership. So often we don't believe we can do a route because of one move that we have trouble with. Imagine that there are dozens of those moves over more than 3,000 feet of climbing, and it takes you years to unlock them. Would you stick with it? Would you believe? And what kind of partnership is required to make that happen?
You can find Tommy online at www.tommycaldwell.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
 
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.